Hit the Beach -- and More

Our next stop was Fort Story, an Army facility at Cape Henry at the northern tip of Virginia Beach, where the Chesapeake Bay meets the Atlantic Ocean. We passed through the security checkpoints to find an 18th-century lighthouse and a memorial cross, where the Jamestown settlers first landed in 1607. Later, we climbed to the top of an observation deck, staring out at the bay and ocean. Then dolphins appeared, dozens of them, their dark dorsal fins peppering the waves. This was pure luck; we hadn't figured on seeing a dolphin pod. When the Rudee Rocket sightseeing boat sped by, the dolphins surfed in its wake, then peeled off one by one as the hazy sun glazed the water gold.

If you're interested in a closer view of marine life, the Virginia Aquarium & Marine Science Center is a safe bet. The aquarium, which was jammed with school and camp tours on the Friday we visited, features local bay and ocean denizens, along with a special exhibit, "In Search of Giant Squid," through Dec. 31. It also offers guided marine-life tours, including dolphin-watching trips, through Oct. 15.

To escape the crowds, we drove southeast to the seafront community of Sandbridge, the gateway to Virginia's outer banks. The beach homes here sport nicknames ("All About Me," "Recovery Room"), and surfboards and bikes are popular modes of transport. Little Island City Park, with its fishing pier and beach, and the Back Bay National Wildlife Refuge, an 8,500-acre habitat for migrating waterfowl, are worth the 15-mile trip from the boardwalk.

On our return home, the sun was shining after a gray, windy morning. Swimming wasn't in the forecast for this trip, but we did return home with a little sand in our shoes and ideas for future exploration.

ACTIVITIES

NEPTUNE FESTIVAL Aug. 26-Oct. 1. The briny bash packs a lot of activities into the month: an "Endless Summer Earthshaker's Bash," a posh evening at the Cavalier Beach Club on Sept. 1; an air show Sept. 8-9 featuring the Navy's Blue Angels and Army parachute jumpers; a seniors gala Sept. 15; a wine-tasting Sept. 16-17; and the 24th annual Sandman Triathlon on Sept. 17, among other events. The festival ends with Boardwalk Weekend, Sept. 29 to Oct. 1, featuring an arts and crafts show, music spanning 32 blocks of the boardwalk, the North American Sand Sculpting Championship, food vendors, a parade and fireworks. Visitors can work off those yummy funnel cakes in sports competitions that include volleyball, an 8K run, surfing and sand-wrestling. 866-637-3378. http://www.neptunefestival.com/ .

Neptune is big but not alone among happenings. The East Coast Surfing Championships, which started Wednesday, end Sunday. September brings more activity, including the Verizon Wireless American Music Festival, Sept. 1-3 with 3 Doors Down, KC and the Sunshine Band, Kool & the Gang, Gloria Gaynor, Sister Sledge, Kansas, Jamie O'Neal, Blue Highway, Blue Oyster Cult, Tavares, Sister Hazel, Better Than Ezra, Joan Jett and the Blackhearts, and WAR; and the Rock-N-Roll Half Marathon on Sept. 3.

OLD COAST GUARD STATION 2400 Atlantic Ave.; 757-422-1587. http://www.oldcoastguardstation.com/ . Open Monday-Saturday 10 to 5; Sundays noon to 5; closed Mondays Oct. 1-Memorial Day.

ASSOCIATION FOR RESEARCH AND ENLIGHTENMENT 215 67th St.; 757-428-3588 or 800-333-4499. http://www.edgarcayce.org/ . Open Monday-Saturday 9 to 8; Sundays noon to 8.

FORT STORY On Cape Henry at the northern tip of Virginia Beach; take Atlantic Avenue north about six miles. 757-422-7101, Ext. 227. http://www.eustis.army.mil/Fort_story . Open daily 8 to 6.

BACK BAY NATIONAL WILDLIFE REFUGE 4005 Sandpiper Rd. (the southern end of Sandpiper Road); 757-721-2412. http://www.fws.gov/backbay . Outdoor facilities open daily dawn to dusk.

VIRGINIA AQUARIUM & MARINE SCIENCE CENTER 717 Gen. Booth Blvd.; 757-425-3474. http://www.vmsm.com . Open daily 9 to 7 through Labor Day; 9 to 5 through Memorial Day. http://

LODGING

BARCLAY COTTAGE 400 16th St.; 757-422-1956. http://www.barclaycottage.com/ . We didn't stay here, but we visited this charming 1895 cottage with Victorian-themed rooms, wraparound porch and beach accessories (towels, chairs, umbrellas, etc.) for guest use. The B&B is a three-minute walk to the water. Continental magazine named it one of world's best places "to propose to your honey." Prices vary depending on season and choice of private or semi-private bath; in September, rooms go for $93 to $127.

HILTON GARDEN INN VIRGINIA BEACH TOWN CENTER 252 Town Center Dr.; 757-326-6200. http://hiltongardeninn.hilton.com/ . Hotel-chain atmosphere; 11 miles from beach, we selected it because of its availability on short notice and comparatively reasonable price. $160.55 double per night.

DINING

TAUTOG'S RESTAURANT 205 23rd St.; 757-422-0081. http://www.tautogs.com/ . Offers crab, seafood and other fare in a fun beach-cottage setting. Recommended: she-crab soup and lemon and jalapeño steamed mussels. Entrees range from $10.95 to $18.95. Open Thursday-Saturday 5:30 to 11:30; Sunday-Wednesday 5:30 to 10.

MARY'S RESTAURANT 616 Virginia Beach Blvd., 757-428-1355. Expect hearty luncheon specials ($5.95) such as baked half chicken, roast pork and liver and onions with a choice of two sides from a list of 17, including fried okra, stewed tomatoes and baby lima beans. Open daily 6 to 3.

Other helpful Web sites: http://www.vbfun.com/ , http://%20www.vbgov.com/ and http://www.beacheventsfun.com/ .

Mary K. Feeney is a Howard County freelancer who, given the chance, would travel just about anywhere, anytime.