WINE

Pinot Gris to Go For

BEN GILIBERTI

If ever a white grape wanted to be red, it is pinot gris. When well made, the wine of this pink-skinned mutation of the red pinot noir approaches the heft and dimension of a red, without sacrificing the fresh pear and melony fruit that comes by virtue of being a white.

In addition to faraway Tasmania (see Wine of the Week, at right), an area that seems to have a genuine flair for pinot gris is the state of Oregon. Oregon's cool climate keeps pinot gris's acidity up while at the same time allowing the grape to fully ripen, which is no mean feat. The better Oregon pinot gris are fruity and refreshing, offering a full mouthfeel complemented by excellent complexity and a round finish.

Not surprisingly, a prime match with Oregon pinot gris is fresh salmon, a Northwest specialty. This wine is also easily up to roast or grilled pork, duck and other dark-meat poultry.

Oregon has had a string of successful vintages since 1998. However, stick with 2003, 2004 and 2005 to assure a full quotient of fruit.

Oregon pinot gris sells for about $15. There are many good producers in this price range, including Adelsheim, Chehalem, Cooper Mountain, Eola Hills, King Estate, Oak Knoll, Pepi (excellent value) , Rex Hill, Van Duzer, WillaKenzie Estate and Willamette Valley .

Do you have a question for wine columnist Ben Giliberti? E-mail him atfood@washpost.com.

WINE OF THE WEEK

Tamar Ridge 2005 Pinot Gris ($18-$20; Tasmania; imported by Robert Whale Selections/Henry Wine Group)

Tastes Like This intensely flavored pinot gris surges with flavors of ripe pear accented by hints of almond and a touch of French oak. The finish is dry and clean, with refreshing astringency. One of the most exciting pinot gris I have tasted from anywhere lately. Ready now.