WINE
Pinot Gris to Go For

Wednesday, September 6, 2006

BEN GILIBERTI

If ever a white grape wanted to be red, it is pinot gris. When well made, the wine of this pink-skinned mutation of the red pinot noir approaches the heft and dimension of a red, without sacrificing the fresh pear and melony fruit that comes by virtue of being a white.

In addition to faraway Tasmania (see Wine of the Week, at right), an area that seems to have a genuine flair for pinot gris is the state of Oregon. Oregon's cool climate keeps pinot gris's acidity up while at the same time allowing the grape to fully ripen, which is no mean feat. The better Oregon pinot gris are fruity and refreshing, offering a full mouthfeel complemented by excellent complexity and a round finish.

Not surprisingly, a prime match with Oregon pinot gris is fresh salmon, a Northwest specialty. This wine is also easily up to roast or grilled pork, duck and other dark-meat poultry.

Oregon has had a string of successful vintages since 1998. However, stick with 2003, 2004 and 2005 to assure a full quotient of fruit.

Oregon pinot gris sells for about $15. There are many good producers in this price range, including Adelsheim, Chehalem, Cooper Mountain, Eola Hills, King Estate, Oak Knoll, Pepi (excellent value) , Rex Hill, Van Duzer, WillaKenzie Estate and Willamette Valley .

Do you have a question for wine columnist Ben Giliberti? E-mail him atfood@washpost.com.

WINE OF THE WEEK

Tamar Ridge 2005 Pinot Gris ($18-$20; Tasmania; imported by Robert Whale Selections/Henry Wine Group)

Tastes Like This intensely flavored pinot gris surges with flavors of ripe pear accented by hints of almond and a touch of French oak. The finish is dry and clean, with refreshing astringency. One of the most exciting pinot gris I have tasted from anywhere lately. Ready now.

Serve With With such superb balance and vibrant fruit, this wine is a treat to drink by itself or accompanied by light cheeses. However, the weight and flavor intensity make it suitable to serve with richly flavored dishes such as turkey, quail and pork.

Geography Although Tasmania is part of Australia, its climate is more like that of New Zealand. It's a cool-climate region with a heavy maritime influence. Rain is a major challenge at harvest. Like many of the world's most interesting wine regions, it exists at the margins of where grapes can be successfully cultivated.

Grape Variety 100 percent pinot gris. Pinot gris is better known by its Italian name, pinot grigio. This doesn't taste much like typical Italian pinot grigio, however. For Italians, white wines are an afterthought, what you sip while waiting for a big hearty Barolo or brunello to mellow out in the decanter. They are light, quaffable and designed to be totally forgettable. Tasmania, by contrast, is staking its future on the quality of its cool-climate wines, and its whites are dressed to impress.

Vintage Note In Tasmania, the 2005 vintage was fine and sunny with a long, slow ripening. Fruit developed good varietal flavors while retaining excellent acidity.

How It's Made Grapes are pressed and removed immediately from the skins. After pressing, 70 percent of the juice is fermented in stainless steel tanks at low temperature to retain fruit character. The rest is fermented in used French oak barriques and allowed to remain in barrel on the yeasty sediment (lees) for about 4 months. The extended lees contact provides additional flavor complexity without adding obvious oak. The two components are then blended before bottling.

On the Label Tamar Ridge takes its name from its geographic region, Tamar Valley. Although Tamar Valley differs climatically from other Tasmanian grape-growing regions, it is not an officially recognized viticultural area. All Tasmanian wines carry the appellation "Tasmania," regardless of where they are produced.

Historical Sip Because of its cool climate, Tasmania has historically been looked to primarily as a source for base wines for sparkling wines. Those typically require thin, tart, high-acid wines, which cool regions -- e.g., the Champagne region of France -- tend to produce. Global warming, however, appears to be working in Tasmania's favor.

Winery The first vines were planted at Tamar Ridge winery in 1994, and the first wines were released in 1999. Winery chief executive Andrew Pirie does double duty as head winemaker. Vineyards are supervised by the well-known viticulturalist Richard Smart, who consults for more than 200 clients in 20 countries.

Where to Get It Tamar Ridge is imported by Robert Whale Selections and is distributed locally by the Henry Wine Group. For information on which stores stock this wine, call Robert Whale Selections, 202-237-5200.