H Street Life

Gabby Torres, left, defeats Veronika Lukasova during the weekly female arm wrestling contest at Showbar Presents the Palace of Wonders on H Street NE. (Dennis Drenner Ftwp)

A sister club to Ninth Street NW's DC9 nightclub, the two-story Red & the Black offers two destinations in one. Upstairs, a narrow performance space welcomes indie-rock bands, alt-country acts and singer-songwriters and holds about 100 people. Brian Deily, who's booking the Red & the Black as well as DC9 and the nearby Rock and Roll Hotel, says his intention is to bring in smaller, quieter acts that may not be ready to play the other, larger venues, but so far, there has been a lot of crossover between bands at the Red & the Black and DC9.

Even if you're not stopping in to see a band, the New Orleans-themed tavern is perfect for grabbing a drink -- especially if you can get the booth in the front window. Though the bar opened in June, the decor already feels lived-in, thanks to creaking floors, dozens of old photographs and vaguely spooky red lights throwing shadows on the black walls. House-made jambalaya and red beans and rice are spooned from pots behind the bar, and Louisiana's Abita beers have a place of pride.

H Street Martini Lounge

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1236 H St. NE; 202-397-3333

The H Street Martini Lounge serves as a counterbalance to most of the H Street establishments, offering dozens of martinis in an upscale atmosphere without losing its neighborhood flavor. Exposed brick walls, cozy high-backed chairs in warm earth tones and a soundtrack of soul and R&B lend a classy vibe, reminding me of the old Juste Lounge. And that's before I started perusing the list of more than 54 martinis, from such classics as the French martini and the Lemon Drop to a whole candy store's worth of sweet, fruity drinks made with flavored rums and crafted to taste like Jolly Ranchers and German chocolate cake. The bartenders have their own specialties, too, so don't be afraid to ask. The Nishatini, made with citrus vodka, pineapple liqueur and pineapple juice, is a winner.

Every Wednesday, free hand dancing lessons are offered on the smooth hardwood floorboards upstairs, where jazz and R&B bands play Thursday and Friday nights. (Unfortunately, the room is too small to allow for much dancing once it gets busy.)

Atlas Performing Arts Center

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1333 H St. NE; 202-399-7993

Slated to be the cornerstone of the neighborhood's artistic revival, the Atlas Performing Arts Center's grand opening will add two new 250-seat theaters to the existing Joy of Motion Dance Center -- which fills a former supermarket -- and a lab theater used for classes and small performances. The 1938 art deco movie house, which has been under renovation for several years, opens Sept. 21 with a fundraiser featuring the Cab Calloway Orchestra (now led by the Hi-De-Ho Man's grandson, Cab Calloway Brooks). The African Continuum Theatre Company's 2006-07 schedule kicks off the same night with Lanford Wilson's "The Gingham Dog."

Phish Tea Cafe

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1335 H St. NE; 202-396-2345

There's a stage against the back wall on each floor of the attractive Phish Tea Cafe, and the long, deep building is one of the biggest on the block. Comfortable couches and armchairs surround a huge bar in the ground-floor lounge, while the upstairs dining area has a huge hardwood dance floor.

That's why it's too bad the entertainment schedule is constantly in flux. Even if phone calls and a large banner hanging from Phish Tea's awning announce that a particular band is performing on a given night, I've wandered in to find the restaurant deserted. Open-mike nights Wednesdays and Fridays attract comics and musicians, and assorted R&B and go-go bands perform Saturdays.

Rock and Roll Hotel

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1353 H St. NE; 202-388-7625

Let's get a common misconception out of the way: You can't stay overnight at the Rock and Roll Hotel. You can, however, spend the night checking out a live band or a DJ in the larger-than-you'd-think concert hall or hanging out and shooting pool in the sprawling upper level. There are two "suites" filled with vintage furniture that can be rented for the evening -- introducing indie rockers to the concept of $1,000 minimums -- while winged guitars soar overhead.