Sunday, September 24, 2006; P01

.

Despite being one of the more peaceful countries in Southeast Asia, Thailand has a long history of coups. Last week it added No. 18 to the books, when military leaders gained control of the government and declared martial law. The group then made Sept. 20 a public holiday. The following day it was back to business, including tourism.

"Generally, things are very calm so far. The coup group does not appear to be interested in causing violence; their stated interest is in returning political stability," says Patrick deGategno, Asia regional analyst at iJet, a travel risk assessment firm in Annapolis. "Everyone is trying to put on a face of 'business as usual.' "

For travelers, that means airports are open, hotels and restaurants are operating and tours are running, even in Bangkok, where the coup took place. According to a statement from Thailand's Ministry of Tourism and Sports, "All tourist destinations, facilities and services in the country remain in operation without disruption, and all tourism-related events organized under the authority of the Ministry will be held as scheduled." A Thailand Embassy official, who asked to remain anonymous, added that foreigners should not be worried and that police in tourist spots have been told to "take extra care and precaution with the tourists ."

U.S. travel companies offering Thailand tours say they have fielded many calls from concerned customers, but they report that few travelers have canceled trips . However, many tour operators are relaxing their rules for those who do. Helen Clausen, general manager of Asian Affair Holidays in El Segundo, Calif., says that over the next two weeks, customers can postpone their trips without penalty ; for cancellations, the firm will refund all costs minus a $200 deposit fee.

The U.S. State Department's Consular Information Sheet on Thailand makes no mention of the coup, although the U.S. Embassy in Bangkok advises Americans to "monitor events closely, to avoid government installations and any large public gatherings and to exercise discretion when moving about."

CoGo's advice: Since the situation in Thailand is still unsettled, it's wise to register with the State Department (http://https://travelregistration.state.gov/ibrs/home.asp) or the U.S. Embassy there ( http://usembassy.state.gov/ ). Also, before you go, monitor the State Department's travel warnings athttp://travel.state.gov, and call your airline within 24 hours of departure to confirm your flight . For the latest developments , check the Tourism Authority of Thailand's Web site (http://www.tatnews.org), which posts updates.

Meanwhile, in Mexico, violent protests continued in the city of Oaxaca last week . Although no tourists have been harmed, at least two people have been killed, and a sense of lawlessness prevails.

National officials and protest leaders were negotiating last week, but analysts expect the disruptions to continue in the popular colonial city, whose 16th-century square, now controlled by demonstrators, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

Other areas in the state of Oaxaca that are popular with tourists " continue to receive visitors as they normally do," including the resort towns of Huatulco and Puerto Escondido and the archeological sites of Monte Alban and Mitla, the Mexico Tourism Bureau said in an e-mail. Travelers whose trips originate in the city, however, should anticipate the possibility of roadblocks, said Andy Case of the risk assessment firm iJet.

Should you follow through with plans to visit? The U.S. State Department has been advising that Americans " consider carefully the risk of travel" to Oaxaca city. The British Foreign Office advises: "Exercise caution." The Canadian Foreign Office, by advising against all travel to the city, basically says: Don't go.

Although once a New York City resident, CoGo on a recent visit felt like a rube.

First, CoGo and friends tried to board an uptown bus with sweaty dollar bills clutched in their hands. "You have to have Metro cards, " growled the driver.

Had he mentioned that using $2 in change was okay, we could have come up with that. Instead we trudged to the nearest subway station to buy Metro cards. We knew about the $7 "Fun Passes" that give all-day access to city buses and subways, but the sign on the information booth made no mention of them. When we asked the man behind the glass, he scowled and banged his pencil against the sign about long-term passes. He did deign to sell us pay-per- ride cards.

Once home, we asked New York City Transit spokesman Charles Seaton if day passes had been suspended. Nope. They're still a great deal but must be bought at machines in the subway station or at some neighborhood stores.

Mistake No. 2: Showing up at the Empire State Building without tickets. Buying in person, we waited an hour to buy tickets and another hour to ascend. (Order ahead at http://www.esbnyc.com/ .)

CoGo then headed to Rockefeller Center's new observation tower, Top of the Rock. No lines, no wait. Bumpkins no more.

Wildfires in Southern California swept along the Los Angeles-Ventura county lines last week, burned out of control in Los Padres National Forest and caused evacuations from Ojai, an artists' enclave. For updates, check the California Department of Forestry and Fire Protection Web site, http://www.fire.ca.gov/ ; click on Fire Information . . . Silverware is back at American Airlines, in business and first-class cabins anyway, as the airline fluffs up premier service with other amenities like warm towels and better food . . . Small Luxury Hotels of the World is looking for 200 "mystery inspectors" to scrutinize hotels in exchange for two free nights (transportation not provided). Apply at http://www.slh.com./

American has sale fares from Washington to Japan. Round-trip fare from Dulles to Osaka, for example, is $699 (plus $80 taxes); fare on other airlines starts at $988. Travel outbound to Osaka by Oct. 22 and return by Oct. 28. Slightly higher fares with different date restrictions are also available to Tokyo. Purchase no later than Sept. 26. Info: 800-433-7300, www.aa.com.

Reporting: Andrea Sachs, Cindy Loose.

Help feed CoGo. Send travel news tocogo@washpost.com.

.