DETAILS

Tierra del Fuego

GETTING THERE: Aerolineas Argentinas flies from Washington to Buenos Aires, connecting in Miami, with fares of about $870 from October to January; United's nonstop from Dulles is about $1,200. Once you're in Argentina, Aerolineas Argentinas offers a complicated discount pass for internal travel on the airline, worthwhile if your itinerary includes stops that would total more than $550.

Aerolineas Argentinas has daily one-way flights nonstop from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia for about $300. Daily one-way flights from Punta Arenas, Chile, to Buenos Aires are available from Aerolineas Argentinas (via Ushuaia) for $473, and from Chile's LAN Airlines for about $425.

A local travel agent is useful for internal arrangements. We used Ricardo Musi at Ryan's Travel in Buenos Aires (54-11-4322-6155, http://www.ryanstravel.com/ ) and Ripioturismo (54-11-4855-4684, http://www.ripioturismo.com.ar/ ).

CRUISES: The Chilean cruise line Australis Cruises (Cruceros Australis, 877-678-3772, http://www.australis.com/ ) operates two nearly identical small cruise ships on regular runs between Ushuaia in Argentina and Punta Arenas in Chile. Departing on Wednesdays and Saturdays from both ports, they carry 136 passengers along slightly different itineraries, some featuring glacier stops without Cape Horn. One-way prices start at $960 per person for a three-night cruise in May and September, when the weather is diciest. From October to April, prices start at $1,140 per person, double occupancy.

Other lines offer longer cruises around Cape Horn with various itineraries, generally taking 14 days between Buenos Aires and Valparaiso, Chile: Crystal, Celebrity, Holland America, Oceania, Princess, Seabourn and Silversea . Celebrity's Infinity is cheapest at $1,349 per person double.

WHERE TO EAT: Downtown Ushuaia has scores of restaurants, but for a special treat, try Kuar (Avenida Perito Moreno 2232), an elegant place on the channel shore about 1 1/4 miles east of town. The waterside view and the exquisite seafood were among the best of our trip, and a five-piece group beguiled us with Celtic music, of all things. Dinner runs about $30 to $40 per person for three courses and a bottle of wine.

INFORMATION: Argentine Tourism , http://www.turismo.gov.ar/ .

-- Joanne Omang