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Chachapoyas, Peru

As of now, the closest you can sleep to Lower Gocta is to pitch your tent next to the village church.
As of now, the closest you can sleep to Lower Gocta is to pitch your tent next to the village church. (Alexander Kornhuber)
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Sunday, October 15, 2006

GETTING THERE: Reaching Chachapoyas in northern Peru takes time and, lately, money. In November we see round-trip fares from Washington to Lima of $680 (on Continental) and $720 (on American). Fares are the same for May, when the dry season usually begins. The onward flight to the northern coastal city of Chiclayo will cost you $150 to $200 round trip from Lima. Lan Peru dominates the route and has ticket and baggage agreements with American. The long overland trip from Chiclayo to the Chachapoyas region will usually be wrapped into your tour, but inexpensive overnight buses are available if you go on your own.

SEEING GOCTA: You can go in the dry season, traditionally May through September, and have an easier trip but a smaller waterfall. Or you can go with the rains and have a wetter experience all around. Be aware that the waterfall is in the moderate Andes, 8,000 to 10,000 feet in elevation. Bring light fleece and rainwear at all times of year. The Peruvian government and local tour operators are falling all over themselves to make seeing Gocta easier. But for now you pretty much have to rough it with one of the archaeological tour companies already there.

Working through Florida's World Class Travel (800-771-3100, http://www.peruperu.com/ ), which has a long presence in northern Peru, I booked a six-day tour of Gocta and several local ruins for $750, including all ground transfers from Chiclayo on, meals, accommodations and expert guides. In Chachapoyas, the company booked me with Vilaya Tours (011-51-41-477-506, http://www.vilayatours.com/ ), a friendly and competent local company owned by English expatriate Rob Dover.

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT: Our base hotel was the Gran Hotel Vilaya (Jr. Ayacucho 755, Chachapoyas, 011-51-41-777-664), an austere but comfortable place (i.e., reliable hot water) near the pleasant town plaza. A double is $25 a night with a continental breakfast at the bakery down the street. It's about four blocks from one of the few fine restaurants in town, La Tushpa , three blocks behind the cathedral, with excellent beef and limited wine for less than $10 a person. (You're better off bringing your own bottle of something Chilean from one of the grocery stores on the plaza. Cuzco this is not.)

Far more interesting accommodations were at Estancia Chillo (011-51-12-659-158, http://www.estanciachillo.com/ ), a converted hacienda along the river on the road to the Kuelap ruins. For $35 a night, you get colonial atmosphere, breakfast, a box lunch and dinner and access to worthy pisco sours.

INFORMATION: Commission for the Promotion of Peru , 866-661-7378, http://www.peru.info/ . -- Steve Hendrix



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