Chefs' Recipes

Ciambella

(Sweet Orange and Raisin Bread)

· CHEF MICHEL RICHARD ON PLASTIC WRAP, EXCERPTED FROM "HAPPY IN THE KITCHEN": "Plastic wrap allows you to roll up ingredients and gently poach them with the kind of long, slow cooking that produces maximum tenderness and encourages flavors to develop to their absolute peak.

"Not all plastic wraps are equally suited to cooking. Many contain PVC (polyvinyl chloride), which should never be consumed. However, among commonly available plastic wraps, Saran Cling Plus and Saran Premium do not contain PVCs and have been cleared by the FDA for food use. Even so, I never use plastic wrap at temperatures over 175 degrees."

· ON THE INTERNAL TEMPERATURE OF PORK: "I sometimes cook pork to an internal temperature of 140 degrees instead of the 160 to 180 degrees recommended in older cookbooks [and by the U.S. Department of Agriculture's Food Safety and Inspection Service]. When cooked to this lower temperature, pork is rosy and has the succulence and delicacy of veal. Trichinosis, which was the reason traditionally given for cooking pork to a high temperature, is virtually a non-factor in modern pork. . . . Of course there are cuts that want to be cooked longer, until the meat softens and nearly falls apart."

Makes 1 large loaf (8 to 12 generous servings)

Chef Fabio Trabocchi says this is the most popular dessert in all of Le Marche, with many "secret recipe" variations. It's enjoyed with a glass of cold milk or sweet wine at the end of a meal. If you can't find candied orange peel, use your favorite dried fruit instead. Adapted from his "Cucina of Le Marche" (Workman, 2006).

1 1/2 cups dark raisins

1 1/2 cups finely diced candied orange peel

1/2 cup anise-flavored liqueur

7 cups Italian 00 flour or bread flour

2 tablespoons baking powder

3/4 pound (3 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

1 3/4 cups sugar, plus extra for sprinkling

15 large egg yolks

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