Wednesday, October 18, 2006
Branzino in Salsa Piccante
(Mediterranean Sea Bass in Spicy Tomato Sauce)
6 servings
This is rich with tomatoes, capers and olives. Chef Fabio Trabocchi likes to make it for his family on Sunday afternoons. Adapted from his "Cucina of Le Marche" (Workman, 2006).
2 branzino or small striped bass, 1 1/4 pounds each, cleaned, scaled, and heads removed
Kosher salt
Freshly ground white pepper
1 small bunch basil (about 1 cup), tough stems removed
1 1/2 cups extra-virgin olive oil, plus more for drizzling
1 small onion, finely chopped
3 medium cloves garlic, thinly sliced
1 small thin red chili pepper, stemmed seeded and finely chopped
1 red bell pepper, cored, seeded and finely chopped
1 cup dry white wine
3 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded and coarsely chopped
1 tablespoon capers, drained and rinsed
1/4 cup pitted black olives, such as kalamata or Taggiasche
2 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
Preheat the oven to 425 degrees. Have ready a flameproof baking dish or roasting pan large enough to hold the fish in a single layer.
Rinse the fish well and pat dry with paper towels. Season lightly with salt and pepper, inside and out. Stuff each fish with half the basil. Rub 1/4 cup of the olive oil into the skin of the fish, and set aside.
Place the baking dish or roasting pan over medium-high heat. Add 3/4 cup of the olive oil, the onion and garlic and cook for about 5 minutes, or until the onion is soft and translucent. Add the chopped chili pepper and bell pepper, and cook for 3 minutes, or until they have softened. Add the wine and cook for about 5 minutes, or until it has reduced by one-third. Reduce the heat to medium-low and add the tomatoes, capers and olives. When the sauce starts to bubble around the edges, remove from direct heat and keep it warm on the stovetop.
Heat the remaining 1/2 cup of olive oil in a large skillet over high heat until it shimmers. Sear the fish for 3 minutes on each side, then transfer to the baking dish and baste with the sauce. Cover tightly with a lid or aluminum foil and bake for 8 minutes. Uncover and increase the oven temperature to 450 degrees. Bake for about 10 minutes, basting every 3 to 4 minutes, until the fish is just cooked through. Transfer the fish and sauce to a serving platter. Sprinkle with the parsley, drizzle with olive oil and serve hot.
Per serving (using all of the sauce): 488 calories, 21 g protein, 8 g carbohydrates, 41 g fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 6 g saturated fat, 147 mg sodium, 2 g dietary fiber
Recipe tested by Pam Kendrick; e-mail questions tofood@washpost.com
Ciambella
(Sweet Orange and Raisin Bread)
Makes 1 large loaf (8 to 12 generous servings)
Chef Fabio Trabocchi says this is the most popular dessert in all of Le Marche, with many "secret recipe" variations. It's enjoyed with a glass of cold milk or sweet wine at the end of a meal. If you can't find candied orange peel, use your favorite dried fruit instead. Adapted from his "Cucina of Le Marche" (Workman, 2006).
1 1/2 cups dark raisins
1 1/2 cups finely diced candied orange peel
1/2 cup anise-flavored liqueur
7 cups Italian 00 flour or bread flour
2 tablespoons baking powder
3/4 pound (3 sticks) unsalted butter, softened
1 3/4 cups sugar, plus extra for sprinkling
15 large egg yolks
Finely grated zest of 3 lemons
Finely grated zest of 4 oranges
1 1/2 cups whole milk
In a small bowl, combine the raisins, candied orange peel and anise liqueur, and let the mixture sit for 30 minutes.
Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.
Sift the flour and baking powder into a large bowl and set aside.
In the bowl of a stand mixer on medium speed, beat the butter and sugar for 3 to 5 minutes, until the mixture is smooth and lighter in color. Reduce the speed to low and add the yolks a few at a time, and then the lemon and orange zests, mixing until incorporated. Alternately add the milk and the flour mixture, beginning and ending with the flour. Switch to the dough hook and, with the mixer on low speed, add the raisin mixture. Mix until fully incorporated.
Generously flour a work surface. Place the dough on the work surface and shape it into a loaf about 14 inches long. Place it on the prepared pan and sprinkle the top with sugar. Bake for 40 minutes, or until golden brown. (To test doneness, insert a toothpick in the thickest part of the bread. If the toothpick does not come out dry, reduce the oven temperature to 325 degrees and bake for up to 10 more minutes.) Transfer to a wire rack to cool slightly. Cut into 1/2 -inch-thick slices and serve warm or at room temperature.
Per serving (based on 12): 824 calories, 15 g protein, 119 g carbohydrates, 31 g fat, 320 mg cholesterol, 17 g saturated fat, 227 mg sodium, 3 g dietary fiber
Recipe tested by Jay Premack; e-mail questions tofood@washpost.com
Cotoletta di Vitello al Miele
(Roasted Veal Chops With Honey)
6 servings
The Corbezzolo honey called for in this recipe is made from the nectar of the arbutus shrub, whose flowers can be seen across the countryside of Italy's Marches and Piedmont regions. Adapted from "Cucina of Le Marche," by Fabio Trabocchi (Workman, 2006).
6 bone-in veal rib chops, about 8 ounces each and 1 inch thick
Kosher salt
Freshly ground black pepper
3/4 pound seedless green grapes
4 tablespoons ( 1/2 stick) unsalted butter, plus 4 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter
5 whole cloves
2 bay leaves
2 sprigs sage
4 oil-packed anchovy fillets, drained and chopped
2 cups dry white wine, such as pinot grigio
1 1/2 cups homemade chicken stock
2 tablespoons Corbezzolo honey or other aromatic honey
Place the veal chops on a plate and season lightly with salt and pepper to taste. Cover and let rest for 30 minutes.
Slice the grapes in half lengthwise and set aside.
Divide 4 tablespoons of butter evenly between 2 large skillets and place them over medium-high heat. When the butter has melted and has just started to bubble, add 3 chops to each pan and brown them for 2 to 3 minutes on each side. Add half of the cloves, bay leaves, sage and chopped anchovies to each skillet and cook for 2 to 3 minutes. Add 1 cup of wine to each skillet and bring to a boil, scraping the browned bits from the bottom of the skillet. Cook for about 10 minutes, or until the wine has almost completely evaporated.
Turn the chops over and add 3/4 cup of the chicken stock to each skillet. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 4 minutes, on one side, turn and cook for 4 minutes on the second side. (The chops will be cooked to medium.) Transfer to a platter and cover loosely with aluminum foil.
Using a fine-mesh strainer, strain the cooking liquid from both skillets into a medium saucepan. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat, then reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 3 minutes. Add the grapes and honey, stirring to combine, and cook for 4 minutes. Add the remaining 4 tablespoons of chilled butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, stirring to incorporate after each addition. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and pepper. Spoon the sauce over the veal chops and serve immediately.
Per serving: 388 calories, 37 g protein, 13 g carbohydrates, 15 g fat, 161 mg cholesterol, 7 g saturated fat, 383 mg sodium, 0 g dietary fiber
Recipe tested by Maria Henriques; e-mail questions tofood@washpost.com
Carrot Ribbon Salad With Aromatic Spices, Mint and Oranges
Makes about 4 cups (4 side-dish servings)
This is clean-tasting and citrusy. Serve with a light fish dish or on a picnic with chicken and other salads. A "Y"-shaped peeler works well for the carrots. Adapted from "Happy in the Kitchen," by Michel Richard (Artisan, 2006).
2 large oranges
4 large carrots (about 1 1/4 pounds), peeled and ends trimmed
3 cloves garlic, crushed
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus additional for drizzling
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 teaspoons lime juice
Fine sea salt
1 teaspoon ground cumin
20 mint leaves, tucked into 1 tight roll and cut into very thin strips
Freshly ground black pepper
To segment the oranges: Use a sharp knife to cut off the top and bottom of both oranges; stand each orange on end. Working vertically around the oranges, one at a time, use a sharp paring or serrated knife to cut away and discard the peel and white pith. Working over a bowl, slice between the membranes to remove all the orange segments, letting them drop into the bowl; squeeze the juice from the membranes, then discard the membranes. Transfer the segments to another small bowl and strain the juice over them to remove seeds. Set aside.
To make carrot ribbons: Use a vegetable peeler to slice the carrots into long ribbons, rotating the carrot after each pass. Stop slicing when you reach the lighter-colored core. You should have about 8 cups of loosely packed ribbons.
Fill a medium bowl with ice water and set aside.
Place the garlic cloves in a large saucepan of water and bring to a boil over high heat. Add the carrot ribbons to the boiling water and cook for 2 to 4 minutes, or until tender (you may have to do this in batches). Quickly drain the carrots and plunge them into the ice water bath. Discard the garlic. When the carrots have cooled, drain well on paper towels. (At this point, the carrot ribbons can be covered and refrigerated in their ice-water bath for up to 1 day.)
In a bowl large enough to hold the carrots, combine the olive oil, lemon and lime juice, a pinch of salt and the cumin. Toss the carrots with the dressing, then add the orange juice and segments. Add the mint and season to taste with additional salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate for a few hours for the flavors to develop.
To serve, if there is a lot of liquid in the bottom of the bowl, strain it into a small saucepan, place the pan over medium heat and reduce the liquid by about one-third, or until it has concentrated in flavor. Remove from the heat and let cool. Place the salad in a serving bowl, mounding it slightly in the center. Drizzle with the reduction, if you have it, and olive oil.
Per serving: 120 calories, 1 g protein, 15 g carbohydrates, 7 g fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 1 g saturated fat, 100 mg sodium, 3 g dietary fiber
Recipe tested by Meaghan Wolff; e-mail questions tofood@washpost.com
Figgy Piggy With Sweet Spiced Port Sauce
4 servings
These days we often use pork tenderloin to create quick meals. This recipe takes time, but it creates a spectacularly tender, flavorful and beautifully presented entree. Make it during fresh fig season, and the slices of meat will resemble the insides of the baked fruit. Plus, it'll give you a chance to try out chef Michel Richard's plastic wrap "sous-vide" cooking technique. Adapted from "Happy in the Kitchen," by Michel Richard (Artisan, 2006).
For the pork:
1 large pork tenderloin, about 1 1/4 pounds, trimmed of any silverskin and excess fat
Fleur de sel
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
Freshly ground black pepper
1 teaspoon honey
1/8 to 1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
For the sweet spiced port sauce:
1 orange
1/2 cup homemade chicken stock, reduced*
1/2 cup ruby or vintage port*
1/2 cup balsamic vinegar
1 cinnamon stick
1 whole star anise
2 pitted prunes, coarsely chopped
Fine sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
1/4 teaspoon ground cinnamon
6 small or 4 medium figs (may substitute 1 cup peeled apple or pear chunks, or 6 dried apricots*)
1 teaspoon unsalted butter
A sprig of rosemary, broken into pieces, for garnish
Season the pork with the fleur de sel.
In a skillet large enough to hold the tenderloin, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil and the butter over medium-high heat. Place the pork in the skillet and use a pair of tongs to roll the meat back and forth occasionally for about 5 minutes, or until all the sides are richly browned. Transfer to a plate and season on all sides with pepper. While the meat is still warm, rub the honey and cinnamon all over the pork.
Roll the pork in plastic wrap: Slightly dampen the work surface to anchor the plastic wrap and lay out two overlapping pieces to form an 18-inch square. Lay the meat across the plastic wrap about 6 inches up from the bottom edge. Pull the edge of the plastic wrap closest to you up over the roll and lay it on the plastic on the far side, pressing it tightly against the meat. Using a ruler or the back of a chef's knife, press against the meat to further compact the meat, then slowly roll the meat up in the plastic wrap, pinching in the sides from time to time to compress the meat more. Twist both ends and tie with kitchen twine. Trim the ends of the plastic wrap. Refrigerate overnight.
Fill a large stockpot with water, clip a thermometer to the inside of the pot and set over medium to medium-high heat, so that the water reaches no more than 140 degrees. (Using a large pot of water makes it easier to maintain the temperature of the water once the pork is added.) Place the pork, still wrapped in plastic, in the water and poach for 1 hour, carefully maintaining the temperature. It is important that the water remain between 135 and 140 degrees as the pork cooks. Keep a bowl of ice cubes next to the stove, and if the temperature climbs, add a few ice cubes to lower the temperature quickly. If the pork will not remain under the surface of the water, wedge a wooden spoon into the pot to keep it submerged.
After 1 hour, remove the pork from the water, unwrap it just enough to insert an instant-read thermometer into the meat at one end, reaching the center of the tenderloin. The temperature should be close to 140 degrees. If it is below 140 degrees, seal the re-wrapped tenderloin in a heavy-duty resealable plastic food storage bag and continue to poach it as necessary. When the meat is done, turn off the heat. The pork can be held in the warm water for up to 2 hours.
Meanwhile, prepare the sauce: Using a vegetable peeler, remove the zest from half of the orange and place the zest in a small saucepan. Add the reduced chicken stock, port, balsamic vinegar, cinnamon stick, star anise and prunes to the pan and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, peel and segment the orange and set the segments aside for garnish.
Remove the star anise from the sauce and reserve for the garnish.
Using a fine-mesh strainer, strain the sauce into a clean saucepan and cook for 10 to 15 minutes, or until it has reduced to about 1/2 cup. Season with salt and pepper to taste, and keep warm until ready to use.
While the sauce reduces, preheat the oven to 400 degrees.
Combine a pinch of fine sea salt and the ground cinnamon in a small bowl. Cut the figs in half from the stem end if they are small or into quarters if they are medium and sprinkle with the salt-cinnamon mixture. Place on a rimmed baking sheet and bake for about 8 to 10 minutes, or until soft. Set aside.
Remove the pork from the plastic bag, if using. In a skillet large enough to hold the pork, heat the remaining 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium-high heat. Add the meat and use a pair of tongs to roll the meat back and forth occasionally for 3 to 4 minutes, or until richly browned. Transfer to a cutting board to rest for a few minutes before slicing.
Rewarm the sauce, if necessary, and whisk in the teaspoon of butter.
Cut the tenderloin into 1/2- to 3/4- inch-thick slices and place on a serving platter. Sprinkle with fleur de sel and pepper to taste. Drizzle the sauce around the meat. Arrange the baked figs, orange segments, the reserved star anise and the rosemary sprig pieces around the meat. Serve any extra sauce on the side.
*NOTES: Chef Richard reduces chicken stock, cooking it down by half, for a more concentrated flavor. He prefers chicken stock to a heavier meat stock in this sauce recipe, to allow the port and orange flavors to shine.
If using dried apricots, rehydrate them first in a cup of very hot water for 10 minutes. Then proceed with the salt-cinnamon mixture and baking steps.
Once opened, port should be stored in the refrigerator, where it will keep for at least a month.
Per serving: 352 calories, 35 g protein, 27 g carbohydrates, 8 g fat, 89 mg cholesterol, 3 g saturated fat, 288 mg sodium, 3 g dietary fiber
Recipe tested by Bonnie S. Benwick; e-mail questions tofood@washpost.com
Makes 3 cups
You can make (and eat) these in minutes. Adapted from "Happy in the Kitchen," by Michel Richard (Artisan, 2006).
1 pound stemmed and chilled seedless grapes
4 ounces 60 percent semisweet chocolate, melted, at body temperature
1 to 2 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder
Wash and dry the grapes well; place in a large bowl. Line a large baking sheet with a silicone mat or parchment paper.
Add the melted chocolate to the grapes, 1 tablespoon at a time, carefully scraping down the sides of the bowl and stirring through the center of the grapes so that they are evenly coated.
As the chocolate begins to set (which will be almost immediately), place the cocoa powder in a small strainer and sift the powder, little by little, over the surface of the grapes. Gently toss or stir the grapes as you continue to sift until all of the grapes are well coated and separated. Spread the grapes on the baking sheet, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until the chocolate has completely set, or up to 1 day.
Per 1/2 -cup serving: 147 calories, 2 g protein, 24 g carbohydrates, 6 g fat, 0 mg cholesterol, 3 g saturated fat, 2 mg sodium, 2 g dietary fiber
Recipe tested by Joe Yonan; e-mail questions tofood@washpost.com
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