DETAILS

Bosque del Apache NWR

GETTING THERE: Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge is about 90 miles south of Albuquerque. United flies nonstop from Dulles to Albuquerque for about $303 round trip; Southwest flies nonstop from BWI to Albuquerque starting at about $237 round trip. Connecting flights are available on many airlines, starting at about $213 round trip.

From Albuquerque, take Interstate 25 to Exit 139 (San Antonio) and follow Route 380 to NM 1, where signs lead to the refuge, about eight miles away. There is an entrance fee of $3 per vehicle.

WHERE TO STAY: There are a variety of motels, including Holiday Inn Express, Super 8 and PayLess Inns, in the town of Socorro, 18 miles away. In San Antonio, the tiny town closest to the Bosque, try the Casa Blanca Bed and Breakfast (13 Montoya St., 505-835-3027; from $80 per night) or the Fite Ranch (on Fite Ranch Road, CR A153, 505-838-0958; from $80), a working cattle ranch that offers cozy suites with private baths as well as a bunkhouse.

WHERE TO EAT: The Owl Bar and Cafe (77 U.S. Highway 380, San Antonio, 505-835-9946) is a sprawling, raffish eatery whose walls are papered with dollar bills signed by out-of-staters. It specializes in green chili cheeseburgers, the price of which -- $4.35 -- has remained the same since the 1970s. No credit cards.

WHAT ELSE TO DO: While the Bosque is a haven for nature, it is quite close (or at least as close as things in wide-open New Mexico are) to two fascinating techno/military attractions. White Sands Missile Range (off U.S. Highway 70, about 44 miles southwest of Alamogordo, 505-678-8824, http://www.wsmr-history.org/index.htm ; free admission) includes the Trinity Site, where the first atomic bomb was detonated in 1945. White Sands includes a museum and missile park open to the public. Twice a year the Trinity Site is open to all visitors, although organized groups can arrange for tours at other times.

Also in the region: the Very Large Array (50 miles west of Socorro on U.S. Highway 60, http://www.vla.nrao.edu/genpub/tours ; free admission), the futuristic field of giant astronomical radio telescopes depicted in the movie "Contact."

INFORMATION: Bosque del Apache National Wildlife Refuge , Socorro, N.M., 505-835-1828, http://www.fws.gov/southwest/refuges/newmex/bosque . The Friends of the Bosque Web site, http://www.friendsofthebosque.org/ , is packed with details to enhance a visit. Also helpful: New Mexico Tourism Department , 800-545-2070, http://www.newmexico.org/place/loc/favorites/page/DB-place/place/1631.html .

-- Grace Lichtenstein