Young Wines Will See You Through the Holidays

The big, bold flavors of the harvest feast call for wines with genuine personality. The right wine must have the fruit and flavor to stand up not only to the turkey but also to the cranberries, sweet potatoes, chestnut stuffing and the rest of the trimmings.

Go with young wines. Youth grants wine an explosion of fruit and a finishing cut of palate-cleansing acidity, all of which keep the taste buds awake through the long day's journey into pumpkin pie.

Although an argument can be made in favor of either red, white or rosé as the ideal holiday match, I say the answer is "all of the above." When well selected, any of the three types can pair splendidly with Thanksgiving fare. Why not offer guests their pick?

Consider stocking up, as these are also good choices for serving with traditional, strong-flavored winter holiday meals, such as goose, duck and ham. Prices are approximate.

WHITES AND ROSÉS

Hugues Beaulieu (La Cave Les Costieres de Pomerols) 2005 Picpoul de Pinet "Coteaux du Languedoc" ($10; France; Kysela Père et Fils Ltd., 540-722-9228): Bursting with fresh aromas of exotic lime and citrus, this wine delivers luscious mouthfuls of round, spicy fruit.

Pierre Sparr 2005 Riesling ($12; Alsace; Wine Partners, badams@zamoiski.com, 202-329-8498): Loaded with fresh, juicy varietal character of peach, citrus and herbs, this delectable dry Riesling opens up a world of flavor beyond the more familiar white wines. At this price it's a steal, so buy enough to last through the holiday season and beyond.

Winzer Von Erbach 2005 Erbacher Honigberg Riesling Rheingau ($12 for 1 liter; Germany; Kysela Père et Fils Ltd.): From vineyards situated next to the Rheingau's famous Steinberg vineyard, this crisp, refreshing Riesling is juicy and complex, with just the right amount of sweetness on the finish. Packaged in a full liter bottle, it's also an excellent value.

Chateau Ste. Michelle 2005 Riesling Columbia Valley ($10; Washington; NDC, 202-388-8235); Snoqualmie Vineyards Riesling Columbia Valley Winemaker's Select 2005 ($7; Washington; NDC); Columbia Crest Riesling Columbia Valley Two Vines 2005 ($8; Washington; NDC): This refreshing trio from Washington state, which makes heavenly Rieslings, are made in a German Kabinett style, meaning that they are slightly off-dry but don't taste very sweet because of the bracing acidity.

Jean-Luc Mader 2004 Pinot Blanc ($12; France; Elite Wines, 703-339-8150); Hugel Pinot Blanc Cuvée Les Amours 2004 ($15; France; NDC); Domaine Ernest Burn 2004 Pinot Blanc ($20; France; Dionysos Imports, 571-437-4490): These offer the superb balance between fruit and acidity of the excellent 2004 Alsace vintage.

Screaming Jack 2005 Unoaked Chardonnay ($10; California; Billington/Winebow, 202-835-3062): Winemaker Tom Larson did not age this wine in oak, as most chardonnays are aged. That lets the pure apple and pear notes of the chardonnay grape show through to perfection.

Domaine Paul Pernot 2005 Bourgogne Chardonnay ($19; France; Jeanne-Marie de Champs Selection, Country Vintner, 800-365-9463): This domain in Puligny-Montrachet is an undiscovered gem, offering excellent white Burgundies at sane prices.