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Dashes of Flavor
Stuffed grape leaves at Bistro Bulgari.
(Lois Raimondo - Twp)
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Just steps from the Alexandria waterfront, in the middle of Old Town's main tourist area, Landini Brothers has ensured its longevity by catering to locals. Franco Landini estimated that about 70 percent of his dinner customers and 100 percent of his lunch crowd are from the area.
Traditional northern Italian food constitutes much of the printed menu. There is also a long list of daily specials that feature the freshest local ingredients and more contemporary preparations. The lunch menu includes panini, crostini and lighter main courses. The wine list is long, with some of Italy's most famous wines.
Pastas, a specialty, are available by the half-portion, and even those are large for a starter. Classic veal preparations, such as veal piccata (with lemon and capers) and grilled steaks are always good choices.
Bistro Bulgari
509 S. 23rd St.
(just off Route 1)
Arlington
703-979-7676
One of the unique eateries in the Washington area is Bistro Bulgari, a sliver of a dining space on South Arlington's 23rd Street. Bulgarian specialties such as shopska salad (tomatoes, cucumbers, peppers and spring onions topped with feta cheese) aren't exactly household terms. But Bulgarian cuisine, influenced by its neighbors Greece, Turkey and Eastern Europe, combines aspects of each to form its own national dishes.
Much of the menu will seem familiar -- there are stuffed grape leaves, a version of moussaka, schnitzel and cheese pies -- but none are exactly what you might be used to. Probably Bistro Bulgari's versions are better.
Main courses tend to be heavier and mainly meat, with some chicken preparations and a lone rainbow trout selection. Be sure to try dessert. The milk banitsa is similar to Italian panna cotta, but it has phyllo dough on the top and bottom and is topped with a rich vanilla pudding icing.
-- Reviewed by NANCY LEWIS
