WORTH THE TRIP : CALAMARES PLANCHA

Particularly in the Levante region of Spain, a la plancha is a cherished method of preparing delicate seafood dishes. This high-heat searing technique is known for preserving the true flavor of the star ingredient and typically calls for only a little olive oil and some lemon, herbs, salt and pepper.

Chef Joaquin Serrano's Calamares Plancha ($7.95) at Sol de España exemplify the brilliance of such an unadulterated preparation. The nugget-size tubes of calamari are tender and crisped lightly on the outside, served simply with lemon and parsley. They taste clean and fresh. And don't overlook the house-made mango cake: a three-layer sponge cake spiked with a touch of mango-flavored liqueur, filled with fluffy mango cream and topped with fine slices of fresh mango. It's delightfully moist and pure tasting.

Sol de España, 838-C Rockville Pike, Rockville, 240-314-0202.

-- Meaghan Wolff

Know of a dish that's worth the trip? Send an e-mail tofood@washpost.com; be sure to include "Worth" in the subject field.