DETAILS

La Manzanilla, Mexico

GETTING THERE: You can fly into Puerto Vallarta and drive a rental car south about four hours, or take a comfy first-class bus to Melaque for about $15 ( http://www.flecha-amarilla.com/). The cab ride from Melaque to La Manzanilla will cost about $15 more. But I've found it easiest to fly into the port city of Manzanillo, less than an hour to the south, and cab it into La Manzanilla. This costs about $50 -- and who wants to hassle with a car when you're not going to go anywhere anyway?

With round-trip prices starting around $725 including taxes and fees, multiple carriers can take you to Manzanillo from the Washington area's three major airports. Most of the flights entail two stops, though Mexicana operates a one-stop run from BWI.

WHERE TO STAY: Most rentals in La Manz rest on either side of the little dirt road through town, paralleling the beach. Beautifully appointed beachfront rentals run about $100 or less a night for a one-bedroom apartment in high season. They include Tranquilidad ( http://www.rkimsey.com/NewFiles/Tranquilidad.html), Casa Maguey ( http://www.casamaguey.com/) and the handsome Alegre Mar ( http://www.alegremar.com/), where the hosts provide boogie boards, kayaks and other water gear.

Another favorite is Brisa del Mar, a lovely hillside retreat above the center of town ( http://www.brisadelmar.info/). Small hotels offer reasonable rates, including the venerable Hotel Posada Tonala in the center of the main drag (011-52-315-351-5474; about $30 per night double). Campsites will get you on the beach dirt-cheap. Town Web sites (see below) have rental information; owners also advertise on Vacation Rentals by Owner, http://www.vrbo.com/vacation-rentals/mexico#1508.

WHERE TO EAT: There are a handful of good restaurants along the main street in town, with entrees averaging a little over $10, margaritas $5. At the south end of the street, overlooking a lagoon, is Martin's, with delicacies such as tequila shrimp and fresh octopus served under the romantic upstairs palapa. Yolanda's, in the town center, cooks up an eclectic menu of international fare, including Indonesian and Thai dishes. At nearby El Quetzal, the specialty is crepes and -- on special days -- chili rellenos that get a local thumbs-up. A number of beachfront palapa restaurants offer relatively inexpensive, and often quite good, fare.

WHAT TO DO:

* Shopping. This is not a souvenir-shop stop. Most stores in town cater to local needs, although each year brings a smattering of new galerias and specialty shops. If you're a pearl girl, ask the beach vendors for their freshwater strands. Expats who have taken them to the States say they're the real deal. I bought some beauties for about $10.

* Classes. A nonprofit community center, the Centro Multicultural ( http://www.centromulticultural.com/), offers a good variety of classes, from yoga to travel sketching (three days, $150). Don't miss the beautiful fine-art gallery downstairs, Galeria La Manzanilla. You can also sign up for week-long immersion Spanish classes ( http://www.lacatalinaschool.com/), which run about $135 for one week -- more if you want to stay with a local Mexican family.

* Nature adventures. Eco-tour guide Davison Collins offers birding, sea-kayaking, snorkeling, cultural and custom tours ( http://www.immersionadventures.com/). Prices range from a $20 to $25 birding tour through the crocodile lagoon to $115 to $125 for a full-day adventure with lunch included. Collins also rents kayaks and snorkel gear and gives surfing lessons.

* Fishing. Steven Rutherford knows the hot spots to hook snapper, tuna, dorado and other species. His boat trips last 3 1/2 hours and cost $160 for three people. Details: 011-52-315-351-5132.

INFORMATION: La Manzanilla has its own blog ( http://members2.boardhost.com/lamanzanilla.mx/index.html) and several Web sites: http://www.lamanzanilla.info/, http://www.lamanzanilla.com/ and http://www.lamanzanilla.biz/.

-- M.L. Lyke