The Weekly Dish

BRING ON THE MARGARITAS! Good news: Washington is getting a new Mexican restaurant.

Better still: Casa Oaxaca, expected to open in Adams Morgan (2106 18th St. NW, 202-334-2272) in time for Valentine's Day, is the creation of one of the area's better Mexican producers, the charming Guajillo in Arlington.

All of which means "no burritos, no chimichangas," according to Rolando Juarez, who owns both properties with his wife, Karen Barroso. Instead, they plan to highlight the flavors of arguably Mexico's most delicious state: Oaxaca, located in the southern part of the country and revered for its moles, cheese, chocolate and mezcal, the potent and smoky liquor made from the agave plant.

A family friend from Mexico, 30-year-old Alfio Blangiardo, is relocating to Washington to take charge of the kitchen, though he'll have backup from Barroso, who recently spent two weeks cooking alongside her hire in Puebla, about 60 miles outside Mexico City. Their menu, including sunflower seed-crusted red snapper; lamb shank seasoned with peppers, avocado leaves and garlic; yellow mole with masa dumplings; and Oaxacan chocolate cake, is expected to embrace a few twists on tradition, including a savory mousse made with huitlacoche (say wee-tlah-KOH-cheh), the prized corn fungus.

The two-story, 100-seat Casa Oaxaca replaces Addis Ababa and will be decorated with pottery and art collected by the owners during trips to the source of their inspiration. Bethesda was Barroso's first choice for launching a second restaurant; the District's "cultural diversity" encouraged her to settle for something closer to Guajillo.

Anyone who has been to Oaxaca knows that fried grasshoppers are as commonplace as corn in the city's bars, restaurants and markets. Will the insect, traditionally eaten as a snack there, land on Casa Oaxaca's menu, too? "I'm going to be adventurous," promises Barroso.

Entrees $13-$23.