DETAILS

Boston's Seaport District

GETTING THERE: Several airlines fly from Washington to Boston. Among the least expensive is AirTran, which has flights from BWI starting at $98 round trip. JetBlue flies from Dulles from $160 round trip. The water taxi from Logan to Rowes Wharf in the Seaport District costs $10 and is a lot more pleasant than the driving alternatives.

If you prefer the train, Amtrak (800-872-7245, http://www.amtrak.com/) services Boston's South Station, which is near the waterfront. Round-trip fares for the eight-hour trip start at about $180.

GETTING AROUND: Use your feet (Boston's a great walking city), the water taxis, the "T" (subway) or, as a last resort, taxis (more expensive than Manhattan's). Do not attempt to drive in Boston, especially in the Seaport District, a confusing maze of one-way streets.

WHERE TO STAY: The Seaport Hotel (1 Seaport Lane, 877-732-7678, http://www.seaportboston.com/) is an elegant modern hotel with rooms starting at $309 a night double; there's a holiday rate of $149 from Dec. 15 to Jan. 7. The Boston Harbor Hotel (70 Rowes Wharf, 617-439-7000, http://www.bhh.com/; from $375) is the most architecturally dramatic of all Boston's hotels, with a huge open archway that leads to Rowes Wharf, the takeoff point for cruises and the water taxi to Logan Airport. The Intercontinental Boston (510 Atlantic Ave., 617-747-1000, http://www.intercontinentalboston.com/; from $245), Boston's newest luxury property, is sheathed in blue glass and granite, across Fort Point Channel from the Seaport District.

WHERE TO EAT: Water Cafe by Wolfgang Puck (100 Northern Ave., 617-478-3105, http://www.icaboston.org/) in the ICA serves soups, sandwiches and salads in a setting overlooking the harbor, with outdoor eating in warm weather. Average check per person for lunch: $12. Legal Test Kitchen (212 Northern Ave., 617-330-7430, http://www.legalseafoods.com/) is a trendy update of the Boston-based Legal Sea Foods chain. LTK features Asian flavors as well as more traditional fish dishes. Main courses are in the $12-to-$25 range.

Anthony's Pier Four (140 Northern Ave., 617-482-6262, http://www.pier4.com/) has been a Boston institution since its opening in 1963, a rather lonely time to be in business on Boston's waterfront. The decor features every fishing-related tchotchke imaginable, and at the bar you're still served Ritz crackers and Cheez Whiz. But the fish is terrific. Prices for main courses are in the $20-to-$40 range.

WHAT TO DO:

· The Institute of Contemporary Art (100 Northern Ave., 617-478-3100, http://www.icaboston.org/) features temporary exhibitions by renowned contemporary artists, a permanent collection of works by international stars, and work by Boston artists possibly slated for stardom. Admission is $12.

· John Joseph Moakley United States Courthouse (617-261-2440, http://www.bostoncourthousemanagement.com/) has outstanding views of the harbor that compete with the 21 large Ellsworth Kelly paintings inside. Free.

· The Children's Museum (300 Congress St., 617-426-8855, http://www.bostonchildrensmuseum.org/) has participatory exhibits including indoor rock climbing and a Recycle Shop, where you can buy safe industrial leftovers by the bagful. Adult admission is $9, children $7.

· The New England Aquarium (Central Wharf, 617-973-5200, http://www.neaq.org/) has a world-class penguin exhibit and the chance to play with harbor seals. Admission is $17.95, or $22.95 for a combo ticket that includes the Imax theater.

INFORMATION: Greater Boston Convention & Visitors Bureau, 888-733-2678, http://www.bostonusa.com/.

-- Christine Temin