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Great Occasions Call for Great French Reds

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Les Cailloux 2004 Chateauneuf-du-Pape ($44; Robert Kacher Selections/Washington Wholesale, 202-832-9083): Even better than the delectable 2003, with a deep purple color, spice-box aromas of herbs and earth, and opulent flavors of blackberries and ground pepper with a hint of fig.

COTES-DU-RHONE AND COTES-DU-RHONE VILLAGES

Paul Jaboulet Aine 2005 Cotes-du-Rhone Parallele 45 ($12; NDC, 202-388-8235): Bright, fleshy fruit with good grip on the finish.

J.L. Chave Selection 2004/2003 Cotes-du-Rhone Mon Coeur ($19; Bacchus, 443-692-6020): Get a taste of the legendary Chave Hermitage style for about one-20th the price.

Selection Laurence Feraud Seguret 2005 ($15; Hand Picked Selections, john.heinel@handpickedselections.com): This Seguret packs a lot of flavor for the price.

Do you have a question for wine columnist Ben Giliberti? E-mail him atfood@washpost.com.


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