Touring Amid a City's Turmoil

"Sitio taxis" are a compromise. They are usually lined up at taxi stands with the name of the company printed on the side of the vehicle. The cabs are metered, and the prices, while higher than street taxis, are fair: The rate from central tourist hotels to the airport averages $15.

At the airport, follow the signs to the official taxi stand, where an agent at a kiosk will determine the rate, based on the zone the hotel is in. The passenger pays the agent, who in turn gives the passenger a coupon to be handed over to the driver. The system, designed to help travelers concerned about taxi crime, works well.

As for the subway, Garrido, the concierge at the Sheraton Maria Isabel, cautioned that the system is rife with pickpockets and purse snatchers. Never use it during rush hour, he warned, adding that the last stop on the No. 3 line, Indios Verdes, is especially dangerous for outsiders.

But I wanted to try it anyway. So at 5 p.m. Friday, I elbowed for a spot on a crowded train as it barreled north from Balderas toward the Indios Verdes station.

As the No. 3 snaked through the city, the crowd grew thicker. Most of the passengers were working-class Mexicans or students. Following their example, I clutched my backpack to my chest. Finally, when the train reached Indios Verdes, the crowd poured out, pulling me along. Out on the street, minibuses and cars were loading up and pulling off. People swarmed around vendors. I turned and went back into the station, moving quickly as if I knew exactly where I was headed.

My conclusion: If you stay alert and guard your belongings, riding the Metro is a good way to get around. It connects most tourist venues, it's user-friendly and, at about 50 cents a trip, it's a good deal. But as in any new city, get a Metro map and study the route before leaving your hotel. Standing in a crowded station easily identifies you as a target. Beggars, who often jostle their way through packed trains, can also be a distraction.

After Hours

In Mexico City, as with most major metropolises, the later in the day, the greater the dangers. Still, those who want to jump into the after-hours scene shouldn't fret.

The key to a secure night out is planning. Using guidebooks, concierges and Internet resources, map out your itinerary and decide the most suitable spots to have cocktails, dine and party. In a city where the trendy nightspots are constantly changing, this can be tough. It's a good idea to confirm the safety of your choices with hotel staff.

Sticking to one neighborhood or general area makes it easier. The two best places for dining and nightlife are Polanco and Condesa. The latter neighborhood draws a hip crowd of 20- and 30-somethings. In Polanco, the scene is chic and slightly older. Mexican officials say that street crime here is lower than in other parts of the city.

Once you decide on the venue, make dinner reservations either personally or through your hotel, and arrange transportation in advance. Order a taxi through your hotel or through agencies listed in most guidebooks. For return trips, either have the restaurant or bar call you a taxi, or reserve a private car beforehand.