DETAILS

Hawaii's Big Island

GETTING THERE: Many major airlines, including America West, Continental, United and US Airways, serve the Big Island from the Washington area, with fares starting at around $557 round trip (America West from BWI). We paid $588 round trip for a United Airlines flight from Reagan National, through Chicago O'Hare to Maui. We then used Island Air ( http://www.islandair.com/) for inter-island flights, paying $40 to $60 per person for one-way hops between islands. Also check Aloha Air ( http://www.alohaair.com/), which sometimes has prices to rival Island Air.

We flew into Kailua-Kona Airport, on the Big Island's west side. Hilo, on the east side, is slightly more convenient to Waipio and, especially, Hawaii Volcanoes National Park.

GETTING AROUND: Car rental rates are reasonable in Hawaii, with standard economy and compact cars available for about $25 a day. The road system is fine, and you can access a huge variety of beaches, hiking areas and other attractions (including Hawaii Volcanoes National Park) with two-wheel drive. Expect to pay closer to $50 a day for a four-wheel drive vehicle, which is nice for getting up on Mana Road and exploring the occasional bumpy dirt road. We rented a Jeep Wrangler from Discount Hawaii Car Rentals (888-292-3307, http://www.discounthawaiicarrental.com/). Note: Consider renting a vehicle with a trunk. We left items (well-concealed) in the Jeep numerous times without incident, but many locals told us that theft from autos is increasingly common.

WHERE TO STAY: We found our Waipio-area rental cottage on Vacation Rentals by Owner ( http://www.vrbo.com/) and paid $145 a night for the best view we've ever had from a room. For information on our cottage: 800-444-7130, http://www.vrbo.com/16876.

In Volcano, we stayed at the Lokahi Lodge (800-937-7786, http://www.volcano-hawaii.com/). The room was nice though not extravagant, and the communal area very cozy, with a fireplace, board games and comfy couches and chairs. Doubles from $140, including breakfast.

In Waimea, we stayed one night at the Waimea Country Lodge (808-885-4100, http://www.castleresorts.com/Home/accommodations/waimea-country-lodge), which is very basic and in need of some renovation. Doubles from $105.

WHERE TO EAT: Portions at many restaurants on the Big Island are huge, so you can often feed two hungry adults with one appetizer and one entree. Most restaurants close by 9 p.m., so if you are a late diner, consider stocking up on necessities at the Foodland supermarket (in Parker Ranch Center, Highway 19), which is open until 11 p.m. daily and has a pharmacy, bakery and deli.

Our best meal of the trip was at Daniel Thiebaut (65-1259 Kawaihae Rd., Waimea, 808-887-2200), which serves French-Asian cuisine in a lively, casual atmosphere. Entrees run $20 to $35. The paniolo ribs appetizer and macadamia-crusted fish were delectable.

Dining options are scant in the Waipio area. The nearest town is Honokaa, and it has a couple of restaurants, but neither was open for dinner on any of the three nights we checked. Activity may be higher during busier seasons. We did have an excellent breakfast sandwich at Simply Natural (on Highway 240, the main drag, in Honokaa, 808-775-0119), a small cafe and a great place to catch a little local flavor. Our favorite coffeehouse on the island (a tough call on an island known for world-class coffee) was Waimea Coffee Co. (63-1279 Kawaihae Rd., 800-854-5662), a warm and welcoming local hangout (with free wireless).

WHAT TO BRING: If you spend any time in Volcano, Waimea or the east side of the island, pack rain gear. Also pack long pants and cool-weather outerwear, especially for travel during winter. Evening temperatures in the 50s are common in Volcano and Waimea, and even coastal areas in the east can feel cool during rain. If you plan to hike around the volcano at night, a headlamp is essential. If you plan to hike at all, bring a water bottle or backpack hydration system. And, of course, this is Hawaii, so sunscreen and a bathing suit are mandatory.

INFORMATION: Hawaii Tourism Authority, 808-973-2255, http://www.hawaiitourismauthority.org/.

-- John Briley