DETAILS

Mexico City

GETTING THERE: Several airlines, including Northwest and United, are offering round-trip fares from Reagan National Airport to Mexico City in the $380 range. The fare on Mexicana's nonstop flight from BWI is $386, with restrictions.

WHERE TO STAY: Security at most hotels of two stars and up is generally fine. We checked out the following properties, all in relatively safe, popular areas:

* The JW Marriott Hotel (Andres Bello 29, 888-236-2427, http://www.marriott.com/), in the trendy Polanco district, is the most spectacular Marriott we've seen, worthy of a special occasion. Doubles start at $209 a night.

* The Sheraton Maria Isabel (Paseo de la Reforma 325, 800-325-3535, http://www.starwoodhotels.com/) is next door to the U.S. Embassy and within easy walking distance of good restaurants and shopping. Doubles start at $109 a night.

* Hotel Calinda Geneve (Londres 130, 011-52-55-50-800-800, http://www.hotelescalinda.com.mx/) is in the heart of tourist-heavy Zona Rosa. Double rooms are a bargain at $85 a night.

WHERE TO EAT AND HANG OUT: Aguila y Sol (Avenida Moliere 42), a much-talked-about restaurant, serves contemporary versions of Mexican favorites. Entrees average $15. Reservations recommended. Bar Fly (Avenida Presidente Masaryk 393) features live Cuban music and a jumping dance floor. Zinco (Motolinia 20), featuring live music nightly, is the premier jazz joint in town.

INFORMATION: Mexico Tourism Board, 800-44-MEXICO (800-446-3942), http://www.visitmexico.com/.

-- Gary Lee