Well, Well

Unexpected Gratification

Campbell suggests I check out some books related to my treatments from the library in the main lodge. Dinner is served in the main lodge anyway, so I head in that direction. The main room of the lodge has a two-story ceiling and giant windows that frame a big stone fireplace. I sit to watch the fire and chat with a couple who have come overnight just to get away from the kids for a while.

The dining room is just down the hall, a more spare room than the main hall. Guests share a series of wooden tables. The food is simple but delicious. Everything, including bread, soup and salad dressing, is homemade and gluten-free. Sheetz discovered she was gluten-intolerant -- meaning wheat, barley and rye are like poison to her -- only after years of suffering from illnesses that went undiagnosed by mainstream medicine. That is what got her into alternative therapies.

My mother and I are joined at our table by two young women. It soon becomes clear they're visiting as part of a rejuvenation retreat. From what I gather, the young woman from Iowa was treated to the retreat by her parents, who hoped it would help her recover from a heart broken by a disloyal fiance.

That makes me curious about the woman from New York, and whether she'd been dumped, too, but she and the Iowa woman eat quickly and join the retreat group for an after-dark walk with Sheetz. I take a pile of books from the library and settle in for the evening.

The next morning after breakfast, I head to the spa with notions of hitting the dry aqua bed again, but buyer beware: The spa is closed on Sundays.

As we drive away down the lonely stretch of country road, I do get some unexpected gratification.

My mother, apparently no longer disturbed by being in the boondocks, mentions how much she liked her lymph massage, said to be good for detoxifying the body and assisting lymph flow. She starts dropping hints about how she'd like to return.

St. Joseph Institute (134 Jacobs Way, Port Matilda, Pa., 814-692- 4954,http://www.stjosephinstitute.com) is about a three-hour drive from D.C. During the week, a one-night stay for two, including dinner, is $155. On weekends, two nights for two, including meals, is $329. A typical 60-minute facial or 60-minute massage is $60. A couple on a weekend package can receive six spa services for an additional $160.