DETAILS

Peru's Callejon de Huaylas

GETTING THERE: Taca, Delta, Continental and American offer connecting service from Washington to Lima. Taca, for example, offers flights from Dulles connecting through San Salvador for about $669 round trip. Delta's flights out of Reagan National connect through Altanta and cost about $667.

There are no commercial flights for the 250-mile trip from Lima to Huaraz. The trip takes six hours by car and eight hours by bus, via the Panamerican Highway north to Pativilca, where the turnoff to Huaraz begins. Among the bus companies that make the trip are Movil Tours (telephone 011-51-1-332-0004 or 011-51-1-332-0024, http://www.moviltours.com.pe/home.html). Fares range from $17 to $26 each way. The buses are largely air-conditioned, with bathrooms, televisions and (at the higher price range) sleeper seats.

WHEN TO GO: The best time to visit is April through October, the Andean summer. But remember: During the best mountain season, it can be chilly and foggy on the coast.

WHERE TO STAY: The best place to stay in the Callejon de Huaylas is the town of Huaraz, and the most comfortable hotel is the Andino Club Hotel (Pedro Cochachin 357, telephone 011-51-43-421662, http://www.hotelandino.com/), a beautifully appointed, three-star, Swiss-style chalet. Rooms are spacious, some with kitchens, balconies and fireplaces. A few have spectacular views of Mount Huascaran and the Cordillera Blanca. Doubles run $106 to $122 per night.

Another good hotel with all the amenities but not as luxurious is Hotel El Tumi (San Martin 1121, 51-43-421784, http://www.hoteleltumi.com/), with doubles at $52 a night. Less expensive hostels include Steel Guest House (Alejandro Maguina 1467, 011-51-43-429709, http://www.steelguest.com/; doubles $38), La Casa de Zarela (Julio Arguedas 1263; from $12 per person), and Olaza Guest House (Julio Arguedas 1242; from $12.50 per person).

WHERE TO EAT: At Chalet Suisse in the Hotel Andino, breakfast with fruits and grains from the region is featured, and is included in the room cost. All meals have a Swiss touch. Main courses cost $7 to $10. Also good: Café Andino (Morales 753), a popular eatery serving Mexican dishes, and Bistro de los Andes (Morales 823), with a blend of French and Peruvian cuisines, featuring mountain trout. (For those headed out for a sunrise trek, the restaurant opens at 5 a.m.) Main courses at both run $3 to $7.

GUIDES: There is excellent climbing in the area. The easiest ascent is to Mount Pisco (18,871 feet), which takes about three days. For all climbs, an experienced guide is necessary. The best place to find one is Casa de Guias (Parque Ginebra 28G, 011-51-43-42-1811), the center of the Peruvian Mountain Guide Association, with information about trekking and climbing expeditions, transporting equipment, and specialized guides. Guides cost $60 to $90 per day.

Blue Parallel (800-256-5307, http://www.blueparallel.com/), a guide service specializing in luxury travel, offers custom trips throughout Peru (and, indeed, all of South America), organizing daily outdoor adventures, hiring private plane travel, guiding you to the best restaurants and finding the most deluxe accommodations. All for a fee, of course. For an aerial trip such as the one described in the accompanying story, costs range from $3,000 to $5,000 per person (party of two adults) per day.

BOBBY HAAS: Aerial photographer Bobby Haas is the author of "Through the Eyes of the Gods" (National Geographic Books, $50), a lavish bird's-eye view of Africa. His book on Latin America, "Through the Eyes of the Condor," will be published by National Geographic in September.

INFORMATION: Commission for the Promotion of Peru, http://www.peru.org.pe/.

-- Marie Arana