Of Aquamaids and Giant Sponges

Well, time has been making a few changes.

The museum's glass-enclosed dioramas, which feature five-foot-high wooden cutout figures depicting aspects of the diving trade, were built in the early '70s by a local diver-artist. The bishop mannequin is missing a hand as he blesses the fleet. The authentic Greek peasant outfit has been attacked by moths or age. Termites have eaten a lacy pattern into the wooden frames, leaving little piles of sawdust. Dust is thick. And there is a heavy layer of camp.

"Cool," said my nephew, looking at the diorama of a diver who stayed down too long. Blood spurts from his eyes and mouth. In case the message is missed, a clip from Newsweek magazine proclaims: "Sponge diving is probably the most dangerous occupation in the United States."

Then there is the film, opening with a modern infomercial on the values of natural sponges and ending with vintage footage of actual dives and segments from "Beneath the 12-Mile Reef" with Robert Wagner (filmed locally) and a Greek chorus singing, "I need it, I need it," as another voice lists the many occasions to use a real sponge.

The best part? It's all free.

Weeki Wachee Springs (Weeki Wachee)

The landscaping at Weeki Wachee Springs is minimal, more back yard than commercial garden. The river cruise goes half a mile and turns around. During our autumn visit, the park's only full restaurant was closed, and boxes stacked in a window gave it a forlorn look. Trash bins needed emptying. The water park was closed.

The place didn't look like a whole lot of fun.

Then we walked dismally down the ramp to the Underwater Theater for the afternoon performance of "Fish Tails," one of two that day. In season, up to five shows are held daily. Fewer than two dozen of us sat in a room that holds 400.

"This is weird," whispered my nephew, looking at the curtained stage. "What's going to happen?"

What happens is incredible. The curtain opens to a spectacular underwater rocky grotto. And true to their motto -- "Swimming our tails off since 1947" -- four "mermaids" in iridescent fins and flowing hair do just that.

"Tails" is a classic, including a demonstration of eating underwater, which was one of the original routines in the '40s. Oops. The mermaid drinking the soda in the production we saw had a little burp and was wearing a brown beard for a moment until the refreshment floated away.

Two turtles and many fish joined the show at will. The production (small compared with the lavish Broadway-style shows performed when ABC-Paramount owned the attraction in the '60s) ended with Lee Greenwood's "God Bless the U.S.A." booming while mermaids swam the flag into view and did backward somersaults.

It also included a descent into the throat of the springs, which pump out 740 gallons of water per second.

"It feels like you're heading into the force of a fire hose," said former mermaid Robyn Anderson, who is general manager of the springs as well as mayor of the town of Weeki Wachee (population 9).

After years of neglect and pending closure, Weeki Wachee Springs was bought in 2003 by the town, which has been making lease-required improvements under the campaign banner "Save Our Tails." Visitation is inching up, with last year's attendance at 250,000. The land, however, is owned by the Southwest Florida Water Management District; both parties are in the third year of a legal dispute over the repairs and possible termination of the lease. Anderson said the community is hopeful that a legal resolution will come soon.

For his part, my nephew was hoping the swimmers would take their tops off.

"Why aren't they topless? Mermaids don't wear tops."

Susan Harb last wrote for Travel on Indiana's Amish country.