THE WEEKLY DISHTOM SIETSEMA
Wednesday, January 17, 2007; Page F02
MICHEL MAKES GOOD:"I feel like Washington is the center of the world sometimes," says Michel Richard, whose new downtown restaurant, Central Michel Richard (1001 Pennsylvania Ave. NW; 202-626-0015), is further evidence that the nation's capital is also a starry place to eat these days. The highly anticipated, window-wrapped bistro -- five years in the planning, according to the veteran chef -- dominates its corner of the block like a massive wheel of brie. On Jan. 8, a parade of industry colleagues and food lovers showed up for its official launch.
What they discovered was a modern, clean-lined and unfussy interior with an inviting bar, a wall of wine and a big open kitchen similar to the stage set found at Richard's lofty Michel Richard Citronelle in Georgetown. "I love to see the kitchen!" exclaims Richard. "Even when I'm at McDonald's!" His latest endeavor places Cedric Maupillier, Citronelle's former executive sous chef, at the stove, and servers who act like they know what they're doing in the 160-seat dining room.
  (Photo By Carl Halvorson) |
With Central, Richard hopes to replicate the flavor of some of his favorite haunts in his native France: "simple, good restaurants" where you can "invite your friends" and not mind picking up the check. Such Parisian bistro staples as raw oysters, onion soup, roast chicken and hanger steak with green peppercorn sauce beckon from the small menu; main courses (including burgers made with beef, tuna or lobster) average $19. A wire vase of warm gougeres is $6 of sheer decadence.
When some diners ask the table-hopping Richard if there's anything they shouldn't miss, he jokes that each dish "is like a child: perfect." It's far too soon to investigate that bias, but I can vouch for Central's fried chicken, succulent beneath its airy sheath of bread crumbs, and the oh-so-tender "72-hour" short ribs framed with excellent french fries. The latter entree reflects Richard's infatuation with sous-vide cooking, which involves poaching the meat in a pouch. The result is beef that hasn't shrunk, that retains its color -- and that melts on the tongue.
We understand a lemon tart and a cheese plate for dessert. But what's a banana split doing on Central's menu? "I've been living here 32 years," explains the 58-year-old chef. "I love American food!"
Entrees $15-$24.
