The Secret Is in the Smoke

Just across the border from Washington, in Capitol Heights, tiny Rosebud's BBQ serves up delectable hickory-smoked meats, including ribs, chicken, turkey, beef and pork, all for takeout only. Rosebud's has developed a loyal following among locals.

Rose Marable and her husband, Wayne, opened the spot five years ago after inheriting it from Wayne's father, who had run a carryout business for three decades at the same location. The restaurant is named after Rose, whom Wayne affectionately calls "Bud."

Though neither had cooked professionally, the Marables found an inexpensive smoker and began experimenting: smoking ribs, trying sauces "and using friends, neighbors and relatives as guinea pigs," Rose said. Wayne, a D.C. police officer in the homicide unit, delivered samples in brown paper bags to judges, attorneys, secretaries and paralegals in exchange for feedback. "He became The Bag Man," she said.

All that tinkering paid off. Meaty pork ribs are served by the slab ($19.45) or half-slab ($13) or in various platters ($11.10 to $13.75), which come with a choice of two Southern-style sides, including mac and cheese, collard greens and slightly sweet "burger beans" that include ground beef. Sides can also be ordered a la carte ($1.80 small, $3.85 large). Some of the meats are on the dry side, but that is easily remedied with the tomato-based sauce, your choice of mild or tongue-tingling, that accompanies them. All the meats also come in sandwich form, including a heaping chopped barbecued pork ($4.95) and steak and cheese ($4.60), the latter one of Rose's favorites.

Rose makes a popular smoked-chicken salad, served in a sandwich ($3.95) or sold by the cup ($3.50) or pound ($6.95). With two days' notice, Rosebud's can also smoke or fry whole turkeys ($60), which are in high demand over the holidays.

Rose, who worked as a flight attendant before opening Rosebud's, prides herself on friendly service: "I want customers to know I appreciate that they came through our door."

Rosebud's BBQ Carryout and Catering, 5915 Old Central Ave., Capitol Heights. Open Tuesdays through Saturdays, 11 a.m. to 8 p.m.; Sundays, 11 a.m. to 5 p.m. 301-336-2009;http://www.rosebudsbbq.com.

-- Erin Hartigan