Where to Find It

Along with labor-intensive preparation, the other challenge for home cooks when it comes to cooking cuts such as pork belly is finding them. Asian supermarkets are a dependable source. Super H Mart (10780 Fairfax Blvd., Fairfax; 703-273-0570) has fresh belly for $2.99 per pound. Fresh pork parts, including belly, are available at Kam Sam supermarkets, but the stores do not quote prices over the phone (300 N. Washington St., Rockville, 301-315-9558; 4316 Markham St., Annandale, 703-658-2550).

Fresh pork from naturally raised heritage breeds can be found at Organic Butcher (6712 Old Dominion Dr., McLean; 703-790-8300) and Home Farm (1 E. Washington St., Middleburg; 540-687-8882). Belly can be ordered 24 to 48 hours in advance for about $5 per pound.

At farmers markets that sell meat, you probably will have to special-order pork bellies or specialty cuts. Cibola Farms ( http://www.cibolafarms.com/) and Cedarbrook Farm ( http://www.cedarbrookfarm.com/) sell their pork at several area markets and year-round at the Dupont Circle FreshFarm Market. Bev and Janelle Eggleston's EcoFriendly Foods sells naturally raised heritage pork (including bellies, fat and kidneys) to area restaurants (including Cashion's Eat Place) and at local farmers markets (Arlington and Dupont Circle) and is working up packages that let the home cook buy whole animals at wholesale prices ( http://www.ecofriendly.com/ or 540-297-9582). Surprisingly, most of the farmers' prices are no higher than what the supermarkets charge for meat from big feedlots. (Beautifully marbled and boneless shoulders from Cibola, for example, run $4.29 a pound.)

We found two places that would sell whole, conventional Iowa hogs by special order. At Wagshal's (4845 Massachusetts Ave.; 202-363-0777) a fresh Iowa hog weighing 100 to 160 pounds is $4-$5 a pound; smaller hogs cost more. Canales Quality Meats in Eastern Market (202-547-0542) will order a whole Iowa hog, frozen and already broken down, for $2.99 to $3.99 a pound, depending on size.

-- John Martin Taylor and Walter Nicholls