Wednesday, January 24, 2007; Page F02
WINE OF THE WEEK
Carpe Diem 2004 Pinot Noir
  The Firepeak Vineyard's mild, foggy climate is particularly suited to the pinot noir grape. (Carpe Diem Winery) |
"Edna Valley Firepeak Vineyard" ($29)
Aroma Ripe black cherry and spice, with toast and vanilla nuances from aging in new oak barrels.
Taste Wild strawberry and meaty black fruit backed by cinnamon, allspice, saffron and red currants, complemented by bright acidity and firm tannins on the finish. Ready to drink now.
Grapes100 percent pinot noir from seven different clones (sub-varieties). Originally from the Pommard and Dijon regions of Burgundy, all the clones have small grape clusters, which yield an intense varietal character of bing cherries and roast meat.
What's Special About It This affordable American pinot noir is a dead ringer for a premier cru Gevrey-Chambertin from Burgundy's Cote d'Or.
Serve With Classic Burgundian dishes such as boeuf bourguignon, coq au vin or roast duck in cherry sauce, or with full-flavored fish, such as grilled salmon.
How It's Made Christian Roguenant grew up in Burgundy and makes his pinot using traditional regional methods, with small, open-top fermenters to bring out varietal character, minimal handling to reduce oxidation, and aging in French oak barrels to season with spice and toast flavors.
Winery Carpe Diem is made using leased facilities at the Paragon Vineyards winery in San Luis Obispo.
On the Label Carpe Diem, Latin for "seize the day," signifies Roguenant's view that the time is right to make a great American pinot noir using Burgundian methods.
Geography Firepeak Vineyard is in the Edna Valley, which was designated an American Viticultural Area in 1982. With a mild, foggy climate, the area has one of the longest growing seasons in California, allowing for gradual ripening of the grapes, which is particularly beneficial to pinot noir.
Vintage2004 was warm for the Edna Valley, yielding particularly voluptuous wines that are ready to drink now. The just-released 2005 Carpe Diem pinot is also excellent but needs six months to a year of cellaring to unwind.
History Firepeak Vineyard was planted less than 10 years ago. By contrast, Burgundy's most famous vineyards, such as Le Chambertin and Clos Vougeot, were well established by the 1600s.
Where to Get It Carpe Diem is represented nationally by Maisons Marques & Domaines. According to the Washington area distributor, NDC (202-388-8235), the 2004 Carpe Diem pinot noir is available at Ace Beverage (3301 New Mexico Ave. NW, 202-966-4444; http:/
