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Globe and Laurel Is a Gung-Ho Marine Corps Experience
Richard T. Spooner, ever the Marine, is ever-present at the Globe and Laurel, which he opened in 1968 and moved in 1975 after a fire. Military and police relics, including decorations, below left, cover the restaurant's walls and ceiling.
(Photos By Tracy A. Woodward -- The Washington Post)
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A fresh loaf of honey wheat bread arrives at the table as soon as you have placed your dinner order. It's quickly followed by a pewter porringer of French onion soup, gratineed. Though there aren't a lot of onions, the rich broth is warming and flavorful on a cold winter evening.
Every dinner also includes a small Caesar salad, presented on a cold pewter plate with a pleasantly mild dressing and a few crisp croutons.
The main course -- be it a sizzling Semper Fi or Gung-Ho steak or filet mignon -- arrives on a rolling cart and is served with fresh vegetables and either a perfectly flaky baked potato, rice or pasta.
The steaks are no rival for any of the big-name national steakhouses, but the beef has a good hearty flavor, and it is perfectly cooked to order. The prime rib is served with a separate bowl of meat juices, though the cut is so juicy, it's not really needed.
The only dessert baked in-house is a deep-dish apple pie, prepared in individual soufflé dishes. The cheesecake is creamy, and the chocolate fudge is just what its name implies.
There is a small wine list, but the beverage of choice is Leatherneck Lager, brewed specially by Old Dominion Brewing Co. of Ashburn and, according to the waitress, available only at the restaurant, two nearby 7-Eleven stores and on base.
In coming months, the Globe and Laurel will be pushed out of the way by a planned widening of Route 1. Spooner said officials haven't given him a date to vacate, though he hopes he has at least a year.
But don't expect the Globe and Laurel to fade away. Spooner plans to relocate, though he hasn't found a place yet.
"I don't intend to have some government tell me when to retire," he quipped, adding, "I'm a Marine, and Marines are lousy losers!"
The Globe and Laurel, 18418 Jefferson Davis Hwy., Triangle, 703-221-5763. Reservations recommended. Hours, lunch, 11:30 to 2 p.m. Monday through Friday, dinner, 5 to 9:30 p.m. Monday through Saturday. Luncheon specials, $6.95. Dinners, $15.95 to $21.95 (includes soup and salad). Accessible to people with disabilities.
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