Bagels to Make the Big Apple Proud

He says "slow-speed mixing" is the secret to his dough's distinctive texture. "We make 'em by hand," he says. "It's much more labor-intensive, but you're just not going to get the right denseness and chewiness any other way."

Bagels are 85 cents; $9.99 for a baker's dozen. 4819 Bethesda Ave., Bethesda, 301-652-8990, http://www.bethesdabagels.com/.

Brooklyn Bagel Bakery

Owner Moe Houdaigui says his bakers arrive at 2 a.m. to mix the dough for the day's supply of bagels. "We don't use any frozen dough," he boasts. When he bought the place, formerly called Big Dog Bagels, seven years ago, he brought in bagel experts from New York to train the staff. A ravenous crowd -- office workers during the week and neighborhood denizens on weekends -- now gathers to devour them.

Bagels are 79 cents; 12 for $7.90. 2055 Wilson Blvd., Arlington, 703-243-4442.

Georgetown Bagelry

The new awning and spruced-up menu belie the fact that little has changed (including the paint) in years at this takeout spot. Popular among students and workers from nearby businesses looking to score a cheap lunch amid the neighborhood's tonier eateries, it's a reliable source of bagels with flavorful dough. One frequent luncher, though, bemoans that the salt bagels often sell out quickly.

Bagels are 99 cents; $11.50 for a baker's dozen. 3245 M St. NW, 202-965-1011.

Goldberg's New York Bagels

Tucked in the Kosher Mart shopping center off bustling Rockville Pike, Goldberg's is popular among the area's Jewish community. Traditional flavors, such as onion, poppy seed and plain, are favorites here. Owner Dan Keleman says the bagels are made from a 100-year-old recipe brought over from Europe by Polish immigrant Isadore Goldberg. A chain of bagelries was named after Goldberg, but the parent company is no longer around, and the former franchises now operate as independent bagel joints.

"A lot of places take shortcuts," Keleman says. "But bagels have to be boiled, which partially kills the yeast and keeps the bagel from getting too bready."

Bagels are 75 cents; $8 for a baker's dozen. 4824 Boiling Brook Pkwy., Rockville, 301-816-9229.

Pumpernickels Deli

Neighbors surrounding this charming Chevy Chase Circle eatery queue up for the bagels, which are soft but boast a pleasantly brown crust, along with thin-crust pizza slices and hearty hero sandwiches. Though the fare is decidedly New Yawk, the place has a local vibe: Giant chalkboard menus hung from the tin ceiling advertise quirky sandwich names (a Gary Williams before the big game?).

Native New Yorker Brigid Gillette, who bought the place from a cousin in 2000, says her bagels stack up just fine against their Big Apple rivals. "The only difference is in the water," she swears.

Bagels are 75 cents; $9 for a baker's dozen. 5504 Connecticut Ave. NW, 202-244-9505, http://www.pumpdeli.com/.

Tysons Corner Bagel Market

The selection of more than 30 bagel flavors here is staggering, although some of the more unconventional options, such as peanut butter or a seasonal pumpkin, would horrify purists. Hungry shoppers have been flocking to this turquoise-tiled bagel spot for about a dozen years, and the place does a brisk catering business for local offices. The bagels are a tad soft, but a light toasting renders them perfectly crisp.

Bagels are 79 cents; $8 for a baker's dozen. 8137 Leesburg Pike, Tysons Corner, 703-448-0080, http://www.tysonsbagelmarket.com/.