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Planning a Polar Excursion

By Andrea Sachs
Washington Post Staff Writer
Sunday, January 28, 2007

Q. I'm looking for info on expeditions to Antarctica, including season, transportation, expense and precautions.

Hwi Suh, Great Falls

A. Travel to Antarctica has changed a lot since Ernest Shackleton's time. These days, travelers need little more than fleece, sturdy sea legs and a yen for penguins. "This trip is right for everyone," says Chris Bettencourt, an art director at Mountain Travel Sobek (888-687-6235, http://www.mtsobek.com/) who visited Antarctica last year with the California adventure group. "There are so many reasons to go: natural history, history, wildlife."

Compared with other wildlife destinations, Antarctica's travel season is short -- mid-November to early March. The penguins come out in droves during the continent's spring and early summer, and February has warmer temperatures. However, even with "milder" temps, the seas can be rocky, with strong gusts and crashing waves.

You don't need to be an athlete to visit Antarctica. Mainly, you must feel comfortable climbing in and out of small boats and hiking on unmanicured terrain. In the muck, wear rubber boots with good ankle support and tread; they'll improve your treks to penguin colonies, scientific stations, etc.

Choose a ship according to your seaworthiness. Some smaller vessels might ask passengers to chip in with onboard responsibilities, but most are hefty cruise ships or research vessels refitted as tourist boats. And though the ships might not have the comforts of the QE2, passengers will receive hot meals and substantial conversation with onboard experts.

Antarctic trips usually run 10 days to a month (depart from Ushuaia, Argentina, or Punta Arenas, Chile) and are a big investment. For example, Scantours' 11-day voyage (800-223-7226, http://www.scantours.net)/ starts at $6,000 per person double, and Mountain Travel Sobek's 20-day "In the Realm of Shackleton" starts at $7,690.

We're taking a transatlantic cruise to Southampton, England. Can we leave the ship in Ireland?

Pam Capps, Celebration, Fla.

Depending on the port, you probably can leave before your final destination; however, don't jump ship without notifying the cruise line. "It is at the discretion of the cruise line," says Kay McKinney, a luxury cruise specialist at Cruise Holidays of Alexandria, adding that the ship "has to account for all of its passengers." McKinney stresses that when booking your cruise, tell the agent you plan to depart early.

Each cruise line has different policies: Cunard, for example, allows its cruisers to personalize trips. Between booking and paying a deposit, travelers should inform the agent that they want to leave at a certain port. The passengers would then fax an itinerary to the "dispatch" department, which would report back to the cruiser on the details, including whether the fare would reflect the shortened trip.

Can you suggest a resort in Napa Valley, Calif., where three adults can share a room or suite?

Linda Rosendorf, Rockville

Napa Valley boasts more than 3,000 rooms, but with many properties on the smaller size, you might have trouble securing a room big enough for three. "The smaller properties can't guarantee a double-double," says Patricia Grant, sales manager of the Napa Valley Conference & Visitors Bureau. To avoid cramped conditions, or having to split up your trio, Grant suggests five larger lodgings in the area.

* Meadowood Napa Valley (800-458-8080, http://www.meadowood.com/) in St. Helena. The upscale property has cottages, suites and family lodges as well as tennis courts, a spa, restaurants and wine programs.

* Villagio Inn and Spa (800-351-1133, http://www.villagio.com/) in Yountville. The sister hotel of the Vintage Inn sits on 25 acres, has 112 spacious rooms and a spa, and is within walking distance of shopping and dining.

* Silverado Resort (707-257-0200, http://www.silveradoresort.com/) in Napa. One of the largest properties in Napa has 423 rooms (including suites), 10 pools, two golf courses, 17 tennis courts, restaurants and a spa.

* Carneros Inn (707-299-4900, http://www.thecarnerosinn.com/) in Napa. The inn has 86 cottages, some of which are suites or have two double beds. Grant compares the inn to a W Hotel -- it's high-end yet hip, with a spa and easy access to wineries.

* Meritage Resort at Napa (707-251-1900, http://www.themeritageresort.com/) in Napa. The new 158-room property rests on eight acres of private vineyards and is scheduled to open its underground cave spa in the spring.

For other options: Napa Valley Conference & Visitors Bureau, 707-226-7459, http://www.napavalley.org/.

Send queries by e-mail (travelqa@washpost.com) or U.S. mail (Travel Q&A, Washington Post Travel Section, 1150 15th St. NW, Washington, D.C. 20071). Please include your name and town.

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