Benin Becomes Unlikely Democracy Leader

COTONOU, Benin -- When this West African nation ran short of funds to finance its election machinery, voters raised cash, loaned computers, and lit up vote-counting centers with their motorcycle headlights.

The unusual display of people power demonstrated how a Marxist dictatorship once nicknamed "Africa's Cuba" has become an unlikely leader of Africa's checkered path to democracy.

Oscar Zinzindohoue, a cloth vendor, said the sight of those sputtering motorbikes gave him hope for democracy.

"We didn't think it was going to happen," said Zinzindohoue, 22, smiling broadly.

With last March's election, tiny Benin has seen three peaceful transfers of power in 15 years. After the peaceful democratic transitions in Ghana, Senegal, Botswana and elsewhere, many analysts say if Benin can do it, so can others.

"The trend was moving positively and Benin has a special place in that history," said Princeton Lyman, head of the Africa program at the Washington, D.C.-based Council on Foreign Relations.

Twenty years ago, Benin and the rest of the continent were struggling to shake off the Cold War-era military rulers who took power after most of Africa's European colonies became independent in the 1960s.

With a command economy, coup leaders in charge and few natural resources, the former French territory stagnated, offering little chance of climbing out of grinding poverty.

Seeing the system couldn't continue, the then dictator, President Mathieu Kerekou, called a national conference in 1990 of civic and religious leaders, farmers and all the political parties. They insisted on democratic elections and presidential term limits.

Living up to his nickname "the Chameleon," Kerekou held elections, lost them and ceded power. He was re-elected five years later, serving until 2006, while the other two presidents came from outside of his political circle. Their banking background helped force economic policy changes that encouraged investment and loosened the state's command of markets.

As much of the rest of Africa stumbled through wars, coups and elections during the last two decades, Benin nurtured tourism, a free press and a stable economy built largely on agriculture and services.

Benin is different from other African countries in many ways. It's small: only 8 million people in a country the size of Pennsylvania. It has one national language, French, and a widespread mixing of ethnic groups that fosters stability.