Benin Becomes Unlikely Democracy Leader

But Adrien Ahahanzo Glele, a former government minister and now a campaigner for democracy, says Benin shares something important with the rest of the continent: "The people of Africa know now that they want democracy. You can see it in their eyes."

Poverty persists, the average daily wage is only $3 and population growth swallows many of the economic gains, but new conference centers, small restaurants and banks have mushroomed in Cotonou, the main city.

In the city center, French students on vacation meet by the city's red-and-white striped church _ affectionately known as the candy cane. Expatriate workers gossip over prawns and red wine on the progress of the soon-to-be-completed west African gas pipeline, which will supply Benin with Nigerian gas.

Their colleagues in troubled Nigeria slip away to Cotonou's tranquil beaches and have nicknamed Benin "Benign." The new presidential residence doesn't even have barbed wire on its low walls.

This land was once an infamous source of slaves for the New World, and there's a small but steady stream of Americans and Afro-Caribbeans on roots-seeking visits. Memorials of slavery are everywhere _ the beachside arch at the Point of No Return showing manacled Africans walking toward the horizon; the Tree of Forgetfulness that captured slaves were marched around three times in the belief it would break their spirits.

As a reward for the elections, U.S. aid to Benin next year is to increase six-fold from $15 million. Other donors have also made increases.

Yet Benin's transformation is far from perfect.

Echoing a widely held belief in Benin, Glele accused Kerekou's government of deliberately starving the electoral commission of funds, hoping it would delay elections.

Instead, he and others raised private donations. One businessman sent in $4,000; other poor farmers could only spare a few dollars, he said.

Elections alone aren't enough, says Lyman in Washington, D.C. He believes African democracy is still threatened by "big man" politics _ leaders unresponsive to the popular will.

Last year Congo, Chad, Uganda and Togo all held presidential polls marred by violence or widespread accusations of irregularities. Leaders in Chad and Uganda modified the constitutions to overturn term limits designed to end presidencies-for-life.

Oil-rich Nigeria, Benin's giant neighbor, is due to hold elections this April, which should mark the first time a Nigerian government has changed by peaceful election. But campaigning has already been marked by assassinations and bombings.

Beninese have high expectations of their new president, Boni Yayi. In the market, people are cautiously optimistic, but say only more sales and a better life will convince them that democracy is the right course.

Hassan el Dorr, whose family owns interests in hotels, shopping malls and communications companies, says corruption and inefficiency remain, and substantial foreign investment has yet to materialize. But he feels confident enough to expand, and plans to add 60 rooms to his 70-room Hotel Du Lac.

"The president now has a certain credibility, so there will be more investment in Benin," said el Dorr.

"You can't change a country in a day; there has to be a period of transition," he says. "But we are learning what democracy is."