Recipes: It's Chili Vs. Chili

2 teaspoons dried oregano, preferably Mexican (see "Tip," at right)

1 tablespoon ground cumin

Cayenne pepper (optional)

Cut or tear apart the ancho chili peppers, discarding the seeds and stems. Place in a dry skillet over medium heat and toast for 5 minutes, just until fragrant, without allowing them to char. Transfer to a blender, add 1 cup of the water and blend until smooth. Set aside.

Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven over medium-high heat until it shimmers. Season the meat generously with salt and pepper to taste, then add just enough meat to the pot to avoid overcrowding. Cook in batches, stirring frequently, for 3 to 4 minutes each, or until the meat starts to brown.

Return all the meat to the pot, add the garlic and cook for a few minutes, stirring constantly, until the meat has browned all over and the garlic has softened. Reduce the heat to medium; add the onion powder, stirring to mix well. Cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly. Add the oregano, cumin and reserved ancho chili puree, stirring to combine. Add enough water to cover the meat by 1 inch (about 3 cups). Cover the pot and reduce the heat to low. Cook for 6 hours, stirring occasionally, then uncover and use a spatula to mash and break up the meat. Cook, uncovered, for another hour or two or until the chili has become quite thick and the meat has almost melted into the liquid. Taste and adjust seasoning with salt and cayenne pepper, if desired. Serve warm, with accompaniments of your choice.

Per serving: 712 calories, 47 g protein, 17 g carbohydrates, 51 g fat, 154 mg cholesterol, 18 g saturated fat, 226 mg sodium, 6 g dietary fiber

Recipe tested by Joe Yonan; e-mail questions tofood@washpost.com

Weeknight Chili

4 to 6 servings

(makes about 2 quarts)

This non-purist version, adapted from a recipe by California cooking teacher Linda Carucci, offers a little heat and a lot of comfort -- especially when it is served over pieces of torn bread, which is how her mother made it.