Recipes: It's Chili Vs. Chili

One 8-ounce can tomato sauce (may substitute 1 cup homemade tomato sauce)

One 15- to 16-ounce can red kidney beans with liquid

1 cup water

1 dried bay leaf, preferably imported

4 to 6 slices day-old crusty Italian or French bread, for serving (optional)

Heat the oil in a large Dutch oven or heavy pot over medium heat until it shimmers. Add the onion, carrot and celery, and cook about 10 minutes, until the onion is translucent. Resist the urge to stir frequently, so the vegetables will caramelize rather than steam. Add 3 teaspoons of the chili powder, the salt, oregano, 1/4 teaspoon of the cayenne pepper and the garlic. Cook for 1 minute. Push the vegetables to the outside edges of the pot, increase the heat to medium-high, and place the ground beef in the center. Use the edge of a wooden spatula or spoon to break the meat into 3/4 -inch pieces. Sear the beef until it begins to brown on the bottom; don't stir it until the beef sears and you see steam rising. Cook about 5 minutes, stirring occasionally, until the meat is no longer pink.

Add the tomato sauce and the beans and their liquid. Rinse the tomato sauce can (or container from leftover sauce) with 1 cup water and add it to the pot along with the bay leaf. Bring the chili to a rolling boil, then quickly reduce the heat to low. Taste; add 1/4 teaspoon cayenne pepper for a spicier chili or 1 teaspoon chili powder for a deeper flavor. Cover and cook, stirring occasionally, until the largest pieces of carrot are tender, about 20 to 30 minutes. Discard the bay leaf. Taste and adjust seasoning as necessary.

If serving over bread, tear 1 slice of bread into 3/4 -inch pieces and place in the bottom of each wide, shallow soup bowl. Ladle the chili on top; serve hot.

Per serving (based on 6): 373 calories, 21 g protein, 19 g carbohydrates, 24 g fat, 67 mg cholesterol, 8 g saturated fat, 838 mg sodium, 6 g dietary fiber

Recipe tested by Bonnie S. Benwick; e-mail questions tofood@washpost.com