DETAILS

Lake Tahoe

GETTING THERE: The closest commercial airport is Reno International, about 60 miles away and a drive of about an hour and 20 minutes to South Lake Tahoe. Some resorts offer ground service from Reno. Most major airlines offer connecting service from airports in the D.C. area, with fares starting at about $260.

Sacramento International is about 115 miles -- a 2 1/4 -hour drive to either North or South Tahoe. Most major carriers offer connecting service from the D.C. area; United has some nonstop options. Sale fares begin at about $220, but $275 to $300 is closer to the norm for discounted tickets.

San Francisco International and Oakland International are about 200 miles away, 3 1/2 hours by car. United and JetBlue offer nonstop service from Dulles to Oakland, while Southwest has nonstops from BWI to Oakland. Round-trip fares start at about $260. United provides nonstop service to San Francisco, with discount fares recently beginning at about $260. The town of Lake Tahoe has a small airport but offers only charter service.

GETTING AROUND: Shuttle and bus services connect some areas and resorts; ask your hotel for details or check with one of the tourism bureaus (see below). If you rent a car, be aware that when the weather demands it, chains are required to travel Highway 89, which runs along the western end of the lake. Car rental offices do not generally provide them, so either buy before you get there or pay premium prices once you're in the mountains. If a chain advisory is announced, "chain jockeys" suddenly appear along the road and will install them for you, usually for about $20.

In bad weather, call ahead when you're in the area for road conditions and closings: 800-427-7623 for California, 877-687-6237 for Nevada.

WHERE TO STAY: North Tahoe has 7,000 hotel rooms, including those in 12 major ski resorts scattered around the mountains, and none would be a bad choice. Resort at Squaw Creek (400 Squaw Creek Rd., Olympic Valley, 800-401-3435, http://www.resortatsquawcreek.com/) is an upscale lodge with numerous activities, an outdoor pool and hot tubs, and a dining room and lobby with incredible views of the mountains and Squaw Valley. Rates for a double begin at $249. A shuttle bus and a chairlift connect the resort to the Olympic village. If you prefer a B&B experience, consider Richardson House (10154 High St., Truckee, 530-587-5388, http://www.richardsonhouse.com/) a Victorian B&B. Double rooms range, depending on size, from $100 to $160 weekdays, $125 to $225 weekends. If you can't find a resort in your price range, consider a hotel like Best Western Truckee (11331 Broadway Rd., 530-587-4525). Double rooms begin at $133 in winter.

South Tahoe has 10,000 rooms, including those in four large casinos, condos, cabins and hotels. Most of the hotels are concentrated in an area that stretches about a mile on either side of Heavenly Village, which has a cluster of shops and restaurants around the gondola that takes people up the mountain for sightseeing, dining and skiing.

Numerous lodging options are within walking distance of the gondola, and a shuttle runs along the strip. Casino options include MontBleu Resort Casino & Spa (55 Hwy. 50, 888-829-7630, http://www.montbleuresort.com/). Rates vary widely depending on demand. Typically, a standard double room ranges from $69 to $139 weekdays and $199 to $299 on weekends. If you want to be close enough to the casinos to play but in a rustic setting, consider Camp Richardson Resort & Marina (1900 Jameson Beach Rd., 800-544-1801, http://www.camprich.com/), which has a small hotel and cottages near the lake. Double rooms begin at $85 midweek and $105 weekends. Cabins range from $95 to $250.

WHERE TO EAT:

· In North Tahoe: Paul McCartney has been known to pop in and play a set at Moody's Bistro (10007 Bridge St., Truckee, 530-587-8688), which has a hip bar, sometimes with live music, and an upscale dining room. Gourmet dinner entrees, made with local products in "slow food" style, range from $22 to $35. For great coffee, pastries and homemade soups and salads: Tahoe House Bakery and Gourmet Store (625 W. Lake Blvd., Highway 89, Tahoe City, 530-583-1377). Gourmet sandwiches are $5.99. For hearty sandwiches on homemade bread, another choice is Rubicon Deli (401 W. Lake Blvd., Highway 89, Tahoe City, 530-583-0577). Sandwiches are $7.49. If you're looking for a cool, upscale apres-ski bar, try the drinks and atmosphere at PlumpJack Squaw Valley Inn (base of Squaw Valley, 530-583-1576).

Sancho's Mexican Taqueria (719 N. Lake Blvd., Tahoe Vista, Calif., 530-546-7744) offers authentic Mexican specialties on a budget, with entrees ranging from $4.95 to $8.95. At the other end of the scale, the Lone Eagle Grille in the Hyatt Regency (111 Country Club Dr., Incline Village, Nev., 775-832-1234) is a good bet for a special occasion on the lakefront. Dinner entrees (continental fare) range from $38 to $45.

· In South Tahoe: Mirabelle (290 Kingsburg Grade, 775-586-1007) has country-style French food in a cozy atmosphere. The small menu changes frequently, but meat entrees are about $28, pasta or vegetarian selections about $18.50. Satos (3436 Lake Tahoe Blvd., 530-541-3769) offers good Japanese food, including an all-you-can-eat sushi dinner for $23.95. Entrees begin at about $13. Wolfgang Puck's (4100 Lake Tahoe Blvd., 530-542-6650) has an "express" restaurant with gourmet pizza and other fast foods of high quality, starting at about $8. For dining with a lake view and a menu that emphasizes seafood: Beacon Bar & Grill (1900 Jameson Beach Rd., 530-541-0630), where most dinner entrees range from about $17 to $35.

INFORMATION: North Lake Tahoe Visitors Bureau, http://www.gotahoenorth.com/, 877-949-3296. For South Shore: Lake Tahoe Visitors Authority, http://www.bluelaketahoe.com/, 530-544-5050.

-- Cindy Loose