DETAILS
New Orleans
Sunday, February 18, 2007; Page P08
GETTING THERE: Most American carriers offer daily flights between all Washington area airports and the Louis Armstrong New Orleans International Airport, with fares starting at about $170 round trip. Taxis from Armstrong International to downtown New Orleans can be hired at a flat rate of $28 for two people. Shuttles to downtown hotels are $13 per person one way.
GETTING AROUND: A rental car is optional; the French Quarter and downtown are walkable. Outside downtown, though, the reality of Hurricane Katrina is more stark: The city's famed streetcars are only partially running, and the bus system has been gutted. Street crime is a reality; at night, taxis are advisable. Locals generally prefer United Cab (504-522-9771).
WHERE TO STAY: Prices can skyrocket during Mardi Gras and the New Orleans Jazz and Heritage Festival, but rates come down quite a bit if you time your visit right. We checked the Web sites of several hotels and found some decent prices for spring. At the Bourbon Orleans (717 Orleans St., 504-523-2222, http:/
WHERE TO EAT: Many restaurants still operate on limited hours; call ahead. Restaurants in the accompanying story include Brennan's (417 Royal St., 504-525-9711), with entrees ranging from about $30 to $35; Cafe Minh (4139 Canal St., 504-482-6266), $15 to $35; Cochon (930 Tchoupitoulas St., 504-588-2123), $12 to $19; Commander's Palace (1403 Washington Ave., 504-899-8221), $21 to $38; Delmonico (1300 St. Charles Ave., 504-525-4937), high $20s; Emeril's (800 Tchoupitoulas St., 504-528-9393), $26 to $39; Galatoire's (209 Bourbon St., 504-525-2021), $15 to $30; Hoa Hong 9 (Nine Roses) (1100 Stephens St., Gretna; 504-366-7665), $8 to $15; Mélange (in the Ritz-Carlton, 921 Canal St., 504-524-1331), $22 to $36; Mr. B's Bistro (201 Royal St., 504-523-2078), $18 to $27; NOLA (534 St. Louis St., 504-522-6652), mid $20s to $30s; Riche (in Harrah's Hotel, 228 Poydras St., 504-533-6117), $20 to $30; and Vizard's on the Avenue (2203 St. Charles Ave., 504-529-9912), $20 to $30.
I also like Cafe EnVie (1241 Decatur St., 504-524-3689) for breakfast: strong coffee, pastries, local music and Wi-Fi in a brick-and-dark-wood coffeehouse. Longtime favorite Bayona (430 Dauphine St., 504-525-4455) is open for lunch Wednesday through Saturday; try the garlic soup and the smoked duck sandwich.
For a relaxing dinner, Arnaud's (813 Bienville St., 504-523-5433) is a throwback to 19th-century New Orleans style, with crab claws sauteed in butter and Pernod, as well as the city's definitive shrimp remoulade. Also good is the Palace Café (605 Canal St., 504-523-1661), with its pecan-crusted catch of the day and savory crabmeat cheesecake.
WHAT TO DO: Controversial when they first appeared, Hurricane Katrina bus tours have become accepted by most locals, many of whom think that the scope of the damage must be seen to be grasped. Among the most sensitive of the tours are those led by longtime tour guide and native Joe Gendusa. Bring tissues. Cost is $35. Information: 504-569-1401.
INFORMATION: NewOrleansOnline.com, http:/
-- Kevin Allman
