Is It Voodoo, or Old-Fashioned Passion?

RED WINES

Benziger Family Winery 2003 Tribute ($85; California): This Bordeaux blend is powerful, impressive and delicious but needs two or three years in the cellar to come into its own.

Ceago Vinegarden 2002 Merlot "Camp Masut" ($25; California): From organic farming pioneer Jim Fetzer, this deliciously supple and deeply flavored merlot from unheralded Mendocino County has a level of class and complexity usually associated with prestigious Napa and Sonoma bottlings.

Montirius 2005 Le Cadet De Montirius "Vin de Pays de Vaucluse" ($13; France); Montirius 2003 Vacqueyras ($21): The Cadet, a blend of grenache, syrah, cinsault and merlot from vineyards near Provence, is a classic French country wine, making it great for pairing with steak and pommes frites, pâté, cassoulet and other bistro fare. The potent Vacqueyras offers brawny flavors of figs and damp earth.

Marc Kreydenweiss 2004/2005 Perrieres "Costieres de Nimes" ($13; France): This stylish blend of carignane, syrah and grenache offers red plum, blackberry and subtle licorice flavors at the finish.

Querciabella 2004 Chianti Classico ($31; Italy): It is expensive for a regular Chianti Classico but has the complexity and aging ability of a reserva.

WHITE WINES

Grgich Hills 2004/2005 Fume Blanc Napa Valley ($33; California): Grgich's fume blanc (another name for sauvignon blanc) is always among the best of Napa, but the 2004 is simply phenomenal, and the 2005 is not far behind.

Domaine de l'Ecu (Guy Bossard) 2004 Muscadet Sevre et Maine "Sur Lie" ($19; France): It delivers a bracing mix of peach, sea salt and citrus flavors.

Domaine Ostertag 2005 "Les Vieilles Vignes de Sylvaner" ($18; France): Delicate peach and floral notes merge into a soft, round, citrusy finish.

Do you have a question for Ben Giliberti? E-mail him at food@washpost.com. Please include your name and address.