DETAILS

Underground Toronto

GETTING THERE: The flight from Washington to Toronto takes anywhere from 50 minutes to an hour and a half, depending on the tail wind. Air Canada and United offer nonstop service, with round-trip fares from $250.

To access the PATH, look for the colored logo outside specific buildings or enter through such subway stations as Union Station. The PATH map also shows entry points.

WHERE TO STAY: Six major hotels are part of the PATH plan -- no outside entry required. I stayed at the Hilton (145 Richmond St. W., 416-869-3456, http://www.hilton.com/), on the west side of the underground system. The hotel has a pool, fitness center, Ruth's Chris steakhouse and bar. Rates from $150 (U.S.) double. Just around the bend is the Sheraton Centre (123 Queen St. W., 416-361-1000, http://www.starwoodhotels.com/sheraton/index.html), where rooms start at $150 double. The grande dame of hotels is the Fairmont Royal York (100 Front St. W., 800-257-7544, http://www.fairmont.com/royalyork), an elegant property built in 1929. Whether you stay there or not, be sure to view the old photographs on the lobby's second level. Rates from $230.

WHERE TO EAT: Besides food courts and other mall fare, you can sample some of the finest cuisine in Toronto without leaving the underground. Canoe (66 Wellington St. W., 416-364-0054) sits on the 54th floor of the TF Bank Tower, overlooking the lake. Try the wild mushroom soup ($8), Yarmouth scallops ($22) and bison tenderloin ($38).

ByMark (66 Wellington St. W., 416-777-1144) is known for its incredibly pricey hamburger ($32), topped with brie and truffles. Other dishes include foie gras with Yorkshire pudding ($22) and roasted Ontario pickerel ($34). For drinks, head upstairs to its swank bar, with great views of the street.

On the opposite end of the PATH, Spring Rolls by Thai Pan (40 Dundas St. W., 416-585-2929) serves standard Asian fare. Dishes include pad thai (from $6), noodle soups (from $5) and rice platters (from $6).

WHAT TO DO: Learn about the country's favorite pastime at the Hockey Hall of Fame (Yonge and Front streets in BCE Place, 416-360-7735, http://www.hhof.com/; $11), or catch a live game or concert at the Air Canada Centre (York and Bay streets, 416-815-5500, http://www.theaircanadacentre.com/). Take a self-guided tour of City Hall (100 Queen St. W., 416-338-0338); print out a guide at http://www.toronto.ca/accesstoronto/self_guided_tour.htm. Go as high as you can in the CN Tower (north of Bremner Boulevard on Front Street W., 416-868-6937, http://www.cntower.ca/portal; from $28).

INFO: Tourism Toronto, 800-499-2514, http://www.torontotourism.com/visitor. Download the PATH map at http://www.toronto.ca/path.

-- Andrea Sachs