DETAILS

Cruachan Ai, Ireland

GETTING THERE: Delta, American and United have round-trip flights from the Washington area to Dublin starting at about $550. Delta and American also fly to Shannon, Ireland, for a little more; Continential's fares to Shannon start at about $720.

Cruachan Ai is about a two-hour drive from both Shannon and Dublin airports. There is train and bus service from Dublin to Roscommon ( http://www.irishrail.ie/) but no scheduled local transportation to the 60 or so archaeological sites once you're there. We found a deal on a small car for about $25 daily from Murray's Europcar car rental at Dublin airport ( http://www.europcar.ie/) and drove to the historical sites.

WHERE TO STAY: Roscommon town and county have numerous motels, B&Bs, resorts and private residential rentals. Gleeson's Townhouse (011-353-90- 6626954, http://www.gleesonstownhouse.com/) is a modernized 1872 stone mansion facing the central square in Roscommon. The tidy 19-room bed-and-breakfast has a restaurant, a cafe and a snug 12-seat bar with a peat-burning fireplace. Rooms start at about $80 per person per night, including breakfast. The ruined 1269 Roscommon Castle is out the back door about half a mile down a grassy cow path.

The Abbey Hotel (011-353-90-6626240, http://www.abbeyhotel.ie/) is a short drive from the town center on the campus of the ruined Roscommon Abbey, founded in 1253. It has 50 rooms, a leisure and fitness center, an indoor swimming pool and a restaurant. Single rooms start at about $140.

Castlecoote House (011-353-90-6663794, http://www.castlecootehouse.com/) is about a seven-mile drive from central Roscommon, an imposing period mansion from the late 1800s nestled beside a ruined medieval castle. There are five unforgettable suites, two tennis courts, fishing and hiking. Rates start at about $5,900 weekly.

WHERE TO EAT: Gleeson's Townhouse (see above) has a cafe and restaurant offering local and international dishes -- steaks and fries, Caesar salad, prawns and mash -- with a European wine selection. A big bowl of fish chowder, with soda bread and butter, runs about $16. Fish and meat entrees cost as much as $32. Reservations recommended for weekend evenings: 011-353-90-6626954.

Keenans of Tarmonbarry (011-353-43-26052, http://www.keenans.ie/) is about an eight-mile drive from Roscommon and sits beside the Shannon River and a series of lakes with excellent fishing. The restaurant emphasizes fish, both a la carte and with a prix-fixe menu starting at about $42 without wine. There's live music most evenings at the adjacent bar.

The cafe at the Cruachan Ai Heritage Centre (see below) offers snacks and light dishes during museum hours, and across the parking lot are two large Irish pubs with classic drink and pub fare.

WHAT TO DO: Cruachan Ai Heritage Centre (011-353-71-9639268, http://www.cruachanai.com/) is a seven-mile drive from downtown Roscommon (no public transportation). Admission is about $7. The information desk has a list of guides who for a negotiated fee will take visitors to Oweynagat.

INFO: VisitRoscommon.com, http://www.visitroscommon.com/ .

-- R.M. L.