DETAILS

Taiwan's Chiang Trail

To trace the life and times of Chiang Kai-shek in Taiwan, you'll be using Taipei's subway system (MRT). It's clean, quick and easy to navigate, and each station has a detailed map of the surrounding area labeled in English. Check http://english.trtc.com.tw/ for fares and other info.

WHAT TO SEE:

* Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall (21 Zhongshan South Rd., 011-886-2-2343-1100, http://www.cksmh.gov.tw/) is in central Taipei. Take the MRT to the Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall Station on the red line. Free admission. Open daily, 9 a.m. to 6:30 p.m.

* Shilin Official Residence (60 Fulin Rd.) can also be reached via the MRT's red line. Exit at Shilin Station; the residence is a 10-minute walk east. The main residence is not open to the public, but the grounds are open Monday to Friday from 8:30 a.m. to 5 p.m. and weekends, 8 a.m. to 7 p.m. Free admission.

* Yangmingshuwu ( http://www.ymsnp.gov.tw/) is in Yangmingshan National Park, just north of Taipei. Take Bus 260 from the MRT's Taipei Main Station to the Yangmingshan bus terminal. Then take Shuttle Bus 108 up the hill to the Yangmingshuwu stop. It's a 15-minute walk from there. Chinese-language tours are given daily at 9 a.m. and 1:30 p.m.; to request an English-speaking guide, call a week in advance (011-886-2-2861-1444). Admission is $1.50.

* Cihu Mausoleum is in Taoyuan County southwest of Taipei. Take the new bullet train from Taipei Main Station to Taoyuan Station (25 minutes; about $5), then take a Taoyuan Bus Co. bus to Cihu. The information desk at the Taiwan high-speed rail station has an English-speaking staff; ask them about bus schedules. Free admission. Open daily, 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Info: http://www.thsrc.com.tw/en (the high-speed rail's site, but it offers details on the mausoleum).

INFO: Taiwan Tourism Bureau, 011-886-2-2349-1500, http://www.tbroc.gov.tw/.

-- J.R.