A Master Class, in Secret

"Yes, but you use those same techniques for the rest of your life. How to cut an onion, a leek, an artichoke," he explained.

You could almost see the wheels of Julia's mind turning. She had an expert in front of her, so she took full advantage, asking, "Is it true you can throw pasta against the wall to see if it's cooked?"

Richard chortled. "Well, that's how the Italians do it," he replied. "It doesn't surprise me. It's a little strange, non?" Then he moved on, interjecting extra tidbits of knowledge as they occurred to him.

"You know where saffron comes from?" he mused. "They are the little pistils handpicked from crocuses. It takes a lot of people to do that!"

While making the salmon, he said, "Let me show you something. Give me a teaspoon of sugar." He added it to the hot pan where the fish was searing. "If you put some sugar in, it turns to caramel and gets so hot it makes the outside browner, more crispy. This is called the Maillard effect."

A few minutes later, he picked up a mushroom. "Let me show you what I used to do when I was a young kid," he said while incising slivers from the top of the cap to create a decorative, fan-like pattern. The girls were mesmerized. "We used to have a race to make these," he said. "I always won."

Richard completed the entire lesson in 3 1/2 hours. Each course was tasted and discussed. "I love that the salmon is crispy on the outside and moist on the inside," Elizabeth effused.

"You sear the fish and bake it at very low heat," explained Richard. "That makes it opaque all the way through."

The dish was so good, even the lure of dessert could not tear the girls away.

"Oh, oh, employees! Come on, come on. Time for chocolat!" he admonished. Actually, the whole day was time for chocolate; the Godiva box was empty.

The dessert was completed in minutes. Richard started its preparation, the bowl turning like a dervish under his hands. He stood over the girls as they took over, emphasizing the need to gently blend the egg whites, whipped cream and chocolate. "You have to bring it from the bottom and fold it over the top, or else you'll have a bad mousse and blame it on me." No problem. "You girls make the best chocolate mousse!" Richard exclaimed. "Your dad is going to be so happy! Christmas is going to be so nice!"

Well, Hanukkah maybe.

The day was done, and Richard collected his acolytes for a photograph. With Elizabeth standing next to him and Julia on his knee, the scene looked like something out of "Miracle on 34th Street."

It was an apt metaphor, but forget Santa Claus. Michel Richard came to town, and as the girls would attest, he is definitely worth believing in.

David Hagedorn is a professional chef and former restaurateur. His "Chef on Call" column appears monthly.