DETAILS

Zambia

Sunday, March 25, 2007; Page P04

GETTING THERE: There are no direct flights from Washington to Zambia's capital, Lusaka, but connecting service is available, changing planes either in London (British Airways) or Johannesburg (South African Airways). South African recently turned its one-stop flight from Washington Dulles to Johannesburg into a 15 1/2 -hour nonstopper. Expect to pay about $2,000 round trip from Washington to Lusaka this summer, though fare sales can ease the bite. Getting from Lusaka to South Luangwa National Park involves an arduous day-long drive on a potholed road or a quick hop on Zambian Airways ($400 round trip) to the eastern town of Mfuwe.

GETTING AROUND: Most visitors to South Luangwa park arrive with confirmed reservations at safari lodges, which provide transportation from Mfuwe airport. Ask the lodges before booking if they will also take you to Kawaza village.

WHEN TO GO: The dry months from June to October are best for game viewing, when the weather is sunny by day, chilly by night. Many lodges close during the wet season, from November to March.

WHERE TO STAY: We chose Flatdogs Camp in Mfuwe ( http://www.flatdogscamp.com/), which offers accommodations for every budget, from basic tents ($20 per person per night) to chalets ($40 per person) to a full-board package ($350 for two people) that includes food, game drives and lodging in a sprawling open-air "tree house."

There are plenty of fancier places to stay, including the Chichele Presidential Lodge ( http://www.star-of-africa.com/circuit/chichele/chichele.htm, 888-229-2257, $500 per night per person, all-inclusive), which was built for Zambia's first president, Kenneth Kaunda.

WHAT TO DO: The wildlife is the main attraction. Lodges offer so-called game drives in open-air vehicles and walking safaris accompanied by rifle-toting guards. Save at least an afternoon to visit Kawaza village and a couple of hours to browse at Tribal Textiles, a showroom and workshop offering hand-painted wall hangings, pillowcases and other interior-design treasures. And don't head home without visiting Victoria Falls, which straddles the Zambia-Zimbabwe border.

INFORMATION: Kawaza Village Tourism Project, http://www.kawazavillage.co.uk/; Zambia National Tourist Board, http://www.zambiatourism.com/.

-- Bill Brubaker


© 2007 The Washington Post Company