DETAILS

Chacala, Mexico

GETTING THERE: Numerous airlines offer connecting flights from Washington to Puerto Vallarta. Round-trip fares start at about $350 from Reagan National and Dulles, $484 from BWI. If you don't rent a car on arrival, a taxi is a good bet for getting to the tiny village of Chacala, about 60 miles north of Puerto Vallarta. Buses don't make the six-mile run in from the main highway. You can, however, take a bus to the nearby town of Las Varas and catch a group taxi for a few dollars.

WHERE TO STAY: Beachside RV camping is big in Chacala, but there are abundant housing options. We liked the little beachside hotel Las Brisas (011-52-327-219-4015, http://www.lasbrisaschacala.com/), where simple rooms ran about $50 a night, the seafood was fresh, the bar well-stocked and the staff friendly.

Fancier digs up the beach include Mar de Jade (800-257-0532, http://www.mardejade.com/), an all-ages retreat with spa and holistic healing facilities, lush gardens and a variety of excursions by boat, horse and taxi. Buffet meals are included in the rates, which, for two people, range from $220 to $270 per night.

Nearby, on a jungled hill that slopes down to the beach, is a pretty four-unit getaway with its own spa called Majahua (011-52-327-219-4055, http://www.majahua.com/). Rates start at about $100 per night, with breakfast. Special packages include such treats as massage, hydrotherapy, aromatherapy and stress-relief workshops.

Chacala Vacation Rentals (760-300-3908, http://www.casapacificachacala.com/) lists local villas, houses and bed-and-breakfast spots for rent. The Hotel Paraiso Escondido (011-52-327-219-4098, http://www.paraisoescondidochacala.com/) has 18 rooms, with doubles starting at about $50.

Visitors can also find inexpensive rooms, some for less than $30, inside villagers' homes through an experimental cooperative program called Techos de Mexico ("Roofs of Mexico"). Details: http://www.playachacala.com/techos.htm. It's a good opportunity to immerse yourself in Mexican culture and the Spanish language.

INFORMATION: A good Internet spot to scout vacation reservations in Sayulita and Rincon de Guayabitos is Vacation Rentals by Owner, http://www.vrbo.com/. If you decide to tour the area by bus, Mexico has an excellent system, and tickets are cheap, even for the comfy first-class, air-conditioned buses. Just ask for the nearest bus station to make reservations.

For more information on Mexican travel: Mexico Tourism Board, 800-446-3942, http://www.visitmexico.com/.

-- M.L. Lyke