TRAVEL Q&A

Kenya's Urban Jungle

Washington Post Staff Writer
Sunday, April 1, 2007; Page P03

Q. I have a conference in Nairobi. What concerns should I have, and what precautions should I take? How should I spend my free time?

Toby Dorsey, Silver Spring

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ANairobi can be wild -- from petty crime to Somali insurgents -- but also fun, says Frederic Ngoga Gateretse, regional manager for Africa at iJet Intelligent Risk Systems, which assesses security issues around the world. "But you really have to be sure you understand the environment you are in."

In the Kenyan capital, the most pressing concerns are the influx of Somali refugees, frequently armed; the rise in carjackings and smaller crimes such as pickpocketing; and a recent spate of political rallies. The U.S. State Department issued a travel warning in February recommending that "private American citizens in Kenya evaluate their personal security situation in light of continuing terrorist threats and increasing incidents of violent crime."

Use your street smarts. Ngoga Gateretse advises visitors to take cabs everywhere, even for short distances (look for the legit London cabs), and to avoid walking around downtown after dark. Also, dress down and don't use cellphones or other electronics in public.

Nairobi has a slew of appealing sights in and around the city. In the city center and its vicinity, you will find Parliament, Snake Park (caged, not free-roaming), the Kenya National Museum and the African crafts market. Raza Visram, operations director of AfricanMecca (866-527-4281, http://www.africanmeccasafaris.com/), which organizes African tours, says to dedicate two or three hours to downtown, then leave the city limits. "If you want a diverse experience," he says, "you have to get out of the main downtown center."

For animal attractions, visit Nairobi National Park, near the airport (watch for wildlife as you land); the David Sheldrick Wildlife Trust, an elephant orphanage; and the Giraffe Center, near the Karen Blixen Museum and the Kazuri Bead Factory. Learn about tea and plantation life in the town of Limuru and about the area's vast tribal culture on the Bomas of Kenya tour ($55 through AfricanMecca). If you have a full day, see flashes of pink (flamingos) and black (rhinos) at Lake Nakuru National Park. For more info: Kenya Tourist Board, 866-44-KENYA (866-445-3692), http://www.magicalkenya.com/.

Is there public transportation from JFK airport to Manhattan?

Gina Palladino, Syracuse, N.Y.

Public transportation from JFK airport is plentiful and, in some cases, inexpensive. The easiest way is to grab a cab, which costs $45, plus tips and tolls (about $4.50), and takes about 45 minutes in typical traffic.

AirTrain JFK departs from the airport and connects to MTA New York City Transit subways and buses; travel time is about 1 1/2 hours and cost is $5 for the train, $2 for the subway or bus.

Shuttles also run the route. New York Airport Service (212-875-8200, http://www.nyairportservice.com/), for example, frequently travels between the airport and Grand Central Terminal, the Port Authority, Penn Station and Midtown hotels, among other stops. Cost is $15 one way.

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