DETAILS

Canadian Rockies

GETTING THERE: Air Canada, American, Continental, Delta, Frontier, United and US Airways offer connecting service to Calgary, about 80 miles from Banff. Round-trip fares start at about $450. The airlines serve all three Washington airports, except for Frontier, which flies out of Reagan National. Similar fares are offered to Edmonton, Alberta, which also can serve as a gateway to the Canadian Rockies -- about four hours from Jasper.

GETTING AROUND: While most people would consider a car essential, the more hardy can be seen covering long distances by bike. The Kananaskis Guest Ranch and Rafter Six are about 45 miles from Calgary and on the way to Banff. You travel an additional 30 miles north of Banff to Lake Louise, then another 80 miles north from Lake Louise to the Columbia Icefield. From the ice field to Jasper is about 65 miles north. All are linked by modern highway, but traffic can become congested at the height of summer.

For a calmer experience and lower prices, consider the shoulder seasons, spring and fall.

WHERE TO STAY: Enjoy the cowboy life at Rafter Six (Exshaw, Alberta, 888-26-RANCH, http://www.raftersix.com/). Rooms are simple but attractive, meals are hearty and the property has a swimming pool, horses and rafting. Doubles with breakfast this summer start at $145. Cabins and chalets are spread around the grounds of Brewster's Kananaskis Guest Ranch (P.O. Box 964, Alberta, 800-691-5085, http://www.brewsteradventures.com/). Bookings are only for groups of 15 or more, including breakfast and dinner, starting at about $88 per person, double occupancy.

Simpson's Num-Ti-Jah Lodge (Lake Louise, Alberta, http://www.num-ti-jah.com/, 403-522-2167) is a historic inn. Rates in summer range from about $173 to $260, and off-season from $95 to $138.

The Banff Caribou Lodge & Spa (521 Banff Ave., Banff, 800-563-8764, http://www.banffcariboulodge.com/) has summer rates beginning at $172 double. Double rooms at the Delta Banff Royal Canadian Lodge (459 Banff Ave., http://www.deltahotels.com/, 403-762-3307) start at $200 double in the summer, but prime summer dates often are in the $300 range. Bumpers Inn (603 Banff Ave., 403-762-3386, http://www.bumpersinn.com/) has basic but clean accommodations at, for Banff, the bargain rate of about $110 during the summer.

For elegance and gorgeous views of Lake Louise and the Rockies, the Fairmont Chateau Lake Louise (111 Lake Louise Drive, Lake Louise, 403-522-3511, http://www.fairmont.com/LakeLouise is worth a tour or meal even if the summer rates, which begin at about $400, are outside your budget.

Camping options are numerous. If you prefer a hotel but prices within the park don't fit your budget, you can find a wide variety of less expensive options in the town of Canmore, 20 minutes from the entrance to the park. For example, at a very attractive Sheraton Four Points (1 Silver Tip Trail, Canmore, 888-609-4422, http://www.fourpointscanmore.com/), doubles start at $125.

WHERE TO EAT: A romantic three-course dinner at the scenic Num- Ti-Jah (see details above) costs about $42 a person.

The informal Glacial Saloon at the Chateau Lake Louise (403-522-3511) features dinner entrees ranging from $12 for chicken pot pie to about $24 for halibut. Entrees in the casual Poppy Brasserie include shepherd's pie for $16 and steak for $26.

The elegant Walter Wilcox Dining Room at Moraine Lake Lodge (Moraine Lake, 403-522-3733) has great views of the lake. Dinner entrees, including pork chops and rosemary-marinated rack of lamb, range from $22 to $42.

For exceptional sandwiches and pastries, try Wild Flour (101-211 Bear St., Banff, 403-760-5074). Most sandwiches range from $5 to $8.

In Canmore, the Summit Cafe (102 1001 Cougar Creek Drive, Canmore, 403-609-2120) features homemade breads and soups, wonderful desserts and muffins. Sandwiches range from $7 to $12.

INFORMATION: Travel Alberta,800-252-3782, http://www.travelalberta.com/rockies. National Parks of Canada, http://www.pc.gc.ca/Banff.

-- C.L.