An Archive of Despair

The fighting broke out again. . . . The roundabout and the streets were being shelled by mortars, while armed men open fires on the pedestrians. The entire INLA's staff caught in the crossfire. One of my librarians, who is partially disabled, lost his balance and fell on his head on the pavement. He was bleeding, unable to stand on his feet. As the fighting abated, some people came to his rescue.

* * *

Eskander walked downstairs, through a cacophony of hammers and saws of workmen renovating rooms, past children playing, until he entered the archive on the bottom floor. Inside, 19th- and 20th-century books, journals and newspapers, once covered with thick dust, are now neatly organized on metal shelves.

But they are perishing because of a lack of ventilation and electricity, and a harsh lighting system. Eskander and his staff are scanning the texts, as fast as they can, onto microfiche.

"We are fighting for their lives," he said. "It makes me angry."

In local newspapers and in his online diary, he has publicly criticized the culture minister and other politicians for not doing enough to protect Iraq's heritage. He speaks to foreign journalists without authorization from his superiors.

"They put hurdles in our way. So we have to find ways behind their backs. Sometimes illegal, but it's in our interest," said Eskander. "If you are a traditionalist, obey laws and obey instructions, you will achieve nothing."

He admits he has stolen books and documents for the library. Once, he said, he retrieved a truckload of documents dating from Iraq's monarchical times from the Green Zone, which houses the U.S. Embassy and Iraq's government. He told U.S. officials that the cache was worthless. "I did a lot of Ali Baba things in Baghdad," he said. He travels regularly to Europe to solicit donations, even though his bosses find it embarrassing. In October, he visited the State Department and the Library of Congress seeking help to purchase more scanners and create the digital library.

He is also providing the world with an unvarnished view of Iraq. Millions read his online diary, which is linked to the British national library Web site.

"He represents hope," said Catriona Finlayson, a spokesperson for the British Library. "He's trying to ensure a future for the next generation. It's important that Iraqis rebuild their country. It's also important that they don't forget their past."

Wednesday, 28 March

I was surprised to learn that Miss Kh showed up to work. She was kidnapped along with 3 men, including the driver, and 6 women. . . . The kidnappers beat up the driver and his male passengers, before releasing the women. . . . She ends the conversation with the same old question: why do not you leave and return to Europe ? I give her the same answer: how can I abandon nice people like you?