Dish

BEYOND BUD: What to drink with a pot of steamed mussels? Bill Catron doesn't hesitate. "Saison Dupont," he says, referring to the golden farmhouse ale known for its spice and citrus notes. "It's the best match I've ever tried." His recommendation is among dozens of beers he plans to pour at Brasserie Beck (1101 K St. NW), the Flemish bistro created by chef Robert Wiedmaier of Marcel's and scheduled to open later this month.

Catron, 31, who got his start in the suds business in college as a beer buyer for the Whole Foods store in Arlington, will hold the title of "beer specialist" at Beck; he'll be responsible for selecting labels and educating the staff and customers about the beverage that, in his opinion, suits Belgian flavors better than wine does. "The beer program at Beck's will be like the wine program at Marcel's," a formal French restaurant in the West End, says Wiedmaier: serious, in other words.

Catron plans to match his boss's shrimp croquettes, beef stew and chicken waterzooi with such top brews as Gouden Carolus Triple, rich with hops and coriander, from one of Belgium's oldest breweries; and the lightly carbonated Poperings Hommel Ale, distinguished by accents of pear and pepper. Beck also will promote dessert beers, including St. Louis Framboise. And no ordinary glasses need apply. The vessel for Kwak, an amber-colored ale with a caramel taste, will have the traditional beaker shape and bulbous bottom, supported by a wooden holder.

Wine lovers won't be left out of the fun; Wiedmaier promises at least 60 wines at or under $50.

-- Tom Sietsema