SHOPPER

In the Trenches

Reiss pleated khaki trench, $640, at Reiss, 1245 Wisconsin Ave. NW. Calvin Klein stretch cotton trench, $168 at fine department stores. Club Monaco kimono-sleeved trench, $249 at Club Monaco Pentagon City, 1100 S. Hayes St., Arlington. Burberry short trench, $945 at Burberry, 1155 Connecticut Ave. NW. Diesel Kaleidoscope trench, $320 Diesel stores and Diesel.com. Agnès B. lightweight cotton trench, $750 at Agnesb.net or 888-246-3722 . (Photo By Julia Ewan -- The Washington Post)

Thomas Burberry invented the trench coat, after creating the rugged water-resistant fabric gabardine, for the British army in the late 1800s. Today's trench coats? They're far from your soldier's standard issue raincoat. Classic khaki endures, along with military detailing -- belted waists and shoulder epaulets -- but now cutting-edge shapes and fabrics have entered the fray.

Reiss's ladylike version adds volume and movement with generous kick pleats. Club Monaco's interpretation is a cocooning single-breasted coat with three-quarter kimono sleeves. French designer Agnès B. lightens things up with an airy cotton chambray in heather gray.

Christopher Bailey, who designs Burberry now, begins each collection with variations of the iconic coat, explaining that it's one of the few pieces that aren't size-ist, sexist or ageist.

And there's something to be said for a style that endures a century, appealing to everyone from secret agents to flashers.

-- Cory Ohlendorf