JJ Deli at Herndon Centennial

The tender, smoky chopped pork sandwich at JJ Deli in Herndon is served out of the nondescript clubhouse at the town's public Centennial golf course. But there's no sign out front for the deli. Ask the guy in the pro shop, or just follow your nose.

For five bucks, you can get a mouthwatering heap of owner Jeff Johnson's pride and joy: moist pork, piled on a bun with a side of slaw. Make sure he gives you a squeeze bottle of Big and Bold, his homemade barbecue sauce. Squirt some on the pork and open wide.

Johnson, a McLean native who served in the military for 20 years, says he picked up recipes wherever he was stationed. "When we were in the South, I learned how to barbecue," he says. Last year his pork sandwich was crowned best in the area at the WUSA (Channel 9) 'cue competition.

Inside the deli, the decor is utilitarian; what makes JJ different is Johnson and his barbecue. Johnson is cook, cashier, dishwasher and all-round genial host. Chatty and outgoing, he serves breakfast and lunch as long as the weather holds. If the golf course closes, so does the deli.

The best thing on the menu is the pork, which he slow-cooks on a smoker behind the restaurant. Smoked sliced brisket we tried was too dry; among the non-smoked fare, we liked the bratwurst ($3.75), browned on the griddle and served on a bun with sauerkraut, onions and mustard.

Johnson also caters; the pork, naturally, is popular, as are ribs and chicken. A pound of pork is $10 and makes four generous sandwiches.

As the weather warms up, Johnson will get some counter help to keep up with the increasing number of golfers, schoolteachers, office workers and residents who know that the best way to order takeout is to call ahead.

-- Candy Sagon

JJ Deli, 909 Ferndale Ave., Herndon; 703-467-0850. Hours: 8 a.m. to 8 p.m. daily, but hours can vary with the weather.