Cafe du Parc: The New Kid on the Bistro Block

Yet another bistro to hit the city, Cafe du Parc (1401 Pennsylvania Ave. NW; 202-942-7000) has some serious wooing to do: Already beckoning diners nearby are Central, Les Halles and the very French (but also very formal) Willard Room, which sits right next door in the Willard InterContinental. Coming up next week: Brasserie Beck.

Those rivals for diners' affections don't seem to bother the director of food and beverage for the hotel, which runs Cafe du Parc. "Adding more restaurant seats makes downtown more of a destination," Greg Van Riet says.

Cafe du Parc has plenty going for it: a handsome, two-story setting done in blue and cream colors; a moderately priced menu that runs from breakfast through dinner (when entrees are $16.95-$23.95); and, most significantly, some star wattage in the form of consultant Antoine Westermann, a French chef with three Michelin stars to his credit.

In his supervisory role, Westermann -- whose interests include the esteemed Restaurant Buerehiesel in Strasbourg, France, and the innovative Drouant in Paris -- plans to visit Cafe du Parc four times a year. His interest is no mere flirtation. Installed at the new restaurant are at least five employees from Drouant, including a restaurant manager, a pastry chef and chef de cuisine Christophe Marque. Working from an open kitchen on the second floor, the 28-year-old native of southwest France is offering bistro traditions (onion soup, pike quenelles), along with some gentle twists, on his menu.

It's too early to make predictions. But one sign of promise is a plate that could pass for a dish at Westermann's elegant venue in Paris: a terrine made from the ingredients typically used for a proper pot-au-feu, including tender beef short ribs, carrots and pearl onions. Framed with beef gelee and a delicate mesclun salad, the first course is French home cooking elevated to fine fashion. Soon, you'll be able to try it outside: By the end of the month, Cafe du Parc plans to add courtyard seating to its arsenal.